Archives Under "Ten 01" (RSS)
I Make Dessert V.
26 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, plated dessert, recipe | 4 Responses
Awww…it’s cute!! Well as Tony once said, we’re in the cute business. This is the Sorbet Trio, dreamed up by Jack Yoss, and realized by me. Chef wanted to do this dish for this past New Years Eve, and they we kept it on the menu as the light choice. At first, before I got Gelatoo-D2, we were buying all of our sorbets (and ice creams) from Great Northwest Ice Cream in Vancouver, WA. Now that we make our own, I use the simplest of techniques for sorbet. Mix 2 parts fruit puree to 1 part simple syrup. As a general rule this works for every puree I’ve tried. Pictured above is pear, strawberry, and marionberry. I adjust sweetness to taste by adding water, add a little lemon juice, and spin it. An easy test for proper ingredient porportions in the “egg test.” I don’t know why this works, but it does. I believe it is somehow measuring brix. Anyway, after you mix together all your ingredients, gently place a whole egg in its shell into the sorbet base. If the egg floats so that only a dime-size portion of the shell is above the liquid, he has achieved the right balance of ingredients. If it sinks lower, the mixture requires more sugar. If more of the shell is visible, the recipe needs more water. Like I said, I’m not sure of the science here, but I’m okay with that. So you’ve got your sorbet, how about those adorable little cones? Those are made from a simple tuile cookie recipe that I stole years ago from Charlie Trotter’s Desserts. The batter is spread into a flat cone shape, sprinkled with chopped hazelnuts, baked, then molded while still warm in a pastry tip. In an airtight container, they last forever. I rotate the flavors of “broth” that the sorbet’s sit in, it’s basically a sweetened fruit puree and a complimentary wine that is brought to a simmer and then chilled. This week it’s Raspberry-Rose. I use little stray pieces of pate fruit (gelee) to garnish the soup. Here’s some recipes:
Basic Sorbet Base
2 cups fruit puree
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
juice of half a lemon
1. Combine the sugar and water in a saucepot and bring to a boil. Chill completely.
2. Mix the 2 cups puree with 1 cup of the simple syrup. Add the lemon juice. Taste it. Is it too sweet? Add water.
3. Perform the egg test as described above…go ahead…it works.
Tuile Cookie Batter
6 tblsp (3 oz) butter
pulp from 1 vanilla bean
3 egg whites
1/2 cup plus 1 tblsp sugar
1/2 cup plus 1 tblsp a.p. flour
for chocolate use:
1/4 cup plus 1 tblsp a.p. flour
1/4 cup cocoa
1. Melt butter with vanilla pulp and cool to room temp
2. Whip egg whites and sugar to soft peaks
3. Sift in flour and mix to combine
4. Store or spread thin and bake @ 350 for 5-7 minutes
I Make Dessert IV.
23 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, faithful readers, plated dessert, recipe | 4 Responses
Now, as my faithful readers know, I love Bread Pudding. If I see it on a dessert menu, I order it. Something about soaking brioche or croissants in a rich custard and then baking it (and then frying it,) really appeals to me. In the case of Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding , pictured here, I use brioche. I serve it with caramelized bananas, dark rum sauce, and salted caramel ice cream. It’s starting to beat out the Chocolate Cake as our top selling dessert. The idea for bread pudding, is as old as the hills, and its no wonder. Set the Way Back Machine for the middle ages, at the advent of custard. Dude’s sitting there eating his baked custard, or more likely, swirling his day-old bread in his creme anglaise. Ever the frugal cook and lover of bread (in spite of its short window of delicious,) he swirls and dunks and lifts and chews. POP! The light bulb goes off, bathing everyone in the light of pudding history, bread pudding is born. Seriously, though, a better use for stale bread bread cannot be found. It’s actually better with stale bread, because it’s more absorbent. Old cookbooks have tons of random recipes, but I like to take a slightly different approach. Chef Tony showed me a way to make the custard that makes a lot of sense. Creaming. If you follow the creaming method, you get a nice rich custard where the butter is evenly dispersed in tiny little particles that melt into the bread in the oven. Overnight soaking is key, getting that bread good and permeated with eggy flavor and creamy goodness. Below is a huge recipe, adapted from Chef Tony Martin’s Bourbon Bread Pudding that to this day, is the best I’ve tasted. I added chocolate chips to his base, but you could add almost anything to this, and it would be damn good. This recipe is 1/3 of what I use, it makes one 2″ hotel pan. Want a smaller recipe? Try this one.
Bread Soaking Custard
1 lb 4 oz butter
1 lb sugar
15 eggs
1 qt heavy cream
1 qt half & half
vanilla extract to taste
1. Cream the butter and sugar light and fluffy with the paddle attachment in a stand mixer.
2. Add the eggs slowly, in three additions, waiting until the eggs absorb and scraping before each addition.
3. Switch to the whip and add the cream and half and half.
So now that you have your custard, you need to soak some bread in it. You need enough stale bread (brioche, croissants, or other bread-remove crusty crusts) to soak up almost all of the custard right when you mix it in. Then cover it and soak it over night. Next day mix in the desired amount of chocolate chips (or ripe bananas, caramel apples, scales of a sea serpent, eye of newt, or whatever tickles your fancy.) and bake it, covered with foil, in a 325 degree oven for about 45 minutes, until its set. If you like, pull the foil off 10 minutes before its done to brown the top. Try something else delicious: omit the sugar, andbefore baking, add sauteed mushrooms, or chunks of foie gras, or bacon, or something savory. It’s gonna be great.
I Make Dessert III.
20 March 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, delicious, dessert, faithful readers, plated dessert, recipe | 4 Responses
So we’ve all had creme brulee, and we’ve all had peanut butter and jelly, but who out there among my faithful readers has had PB&J Creme Brulee? I love this fucking dessert. I think it deserves Creative Presentation of the Week. Why, you may ask? Well, it’s the culmination of alot of hard work, during which I subsisted on pb&j sandwiches, and also, I’ve known this peanut butter custard recipe was solid since The Velvet Elvis. This idea had been struggling to come out, and it took the influence of Chef Jack Yoss to see it’s realization. I made him the peanut butter brulee to try and he suggested putting marionberry jam into the ramekin first, ’cause he loved the custard…and he loves pb&j, too. We first tried it in our regular brulee molds, but after one day the jam would seep through the custard and create this gnarly looking scar when you tried to brulee it. We went to a deeper dish to avoid that problem, and also started reducing the jam first to remove any excess moisture. House made honey roasted peanuts are sprinkled on after carmelizing the custard. The shot of chocolate milk actually came about because of a guest suggestion: it was good, but needed chocolate. After some experimentaion, I went with good old Hersheys choclolate syrup to make it because let’s face it, that’s what chocolate milk is. A little heavy cream adds some creaminess, as if this dish needed it. This is my favorite item on the current menu…I don’t know why we don’t sell more of them…C’MON PEOPLE!!! The only thing missing is the bread, and you had some with your salad!! Anyway, here’s the recipes:
Peanut Butter & Jelly Brulee
1 1/3 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups whipping cream
6 tablespoons plus 6 teaspoons sugar
5+ oz creamy peanut butter (do not use old-fashioned style or freshly ground)
8 large egg yolks
marionberry jam as needed (or any other jam that you prefer)
1. Combine milk, cream, sugar and scald
2. Temper in eggs
3. Temper in peanut butter and whisk until smooth
4. Taste the cream. I always end up adding a little more peanut butter, up to 1 cup
5. Strain the cream and chill overnight or at least three hours.
6. Place the jam in a saucepot and reduce it by one-third over low heat, stirring occasionally.
7. Cool the jam slighty and then spread it in an even layer into the bottom of desired (deep) ramekin. Pop them in the freezer to set the jam.
8. When the jam is super cold and won’t be distured by pouring in the custard, pour in the custard
9. Bake the custard in a 300 degree oven, in a water bath for 30 minutes or so, or until set at the edges, and a little loose at the center. Open the oven, turn it off, close the door, and finish them for another 45 minutes.
10. Chill the brulee’s for at least 3 hours before sprinkling some granulated sugar and a blowtorch to carmelize. Sprinkle with loose chopped honey roasted peanuts if desired.
Chocolate Milk
2 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
10 oz Hershey’s Syrup
1. Place all ingredients in a blender and blend. Serve ice cold in a chilled glass.
I Make Dessert II.
18 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, recipe | 10 Responses
Here is another dessert that I serve at Ten-01. It’s called Olive Oil Beignets with Lemon Sage Anglaise. I did this dessert at my tasting for the job here because we have these really sweet bowls. The sauce rides in a little caddy up front, and the dougnuts in back. I think these were what got me the job. Oh yeah, and a little magazine called Bon Appetit is running them in thier June 08 issue. The pastry is a basic pate choux, where most of butter is replaced with olive oil. Typically, choux paste uses water, but I like using good ‘ol whole milk. The batter is basically an enriched roux that eggs are added to while its still warm. I’m not sure what science is going on here, but according to Harold McGee in On Food And Cooking, cooking the flour with the liquid and fat tenderizes the gluten protiens, preventing them from develpoing elasticity, and the addition of eggs adds flavor from the yolks and structure from the whites. This basic recipe dates back to 1540, and was fine tuned much later by none other than Antoine Careme. After making the batter I pipe it into little dougnut shapes and freeze them rock hard. They go from the freezer straight into a 325 degree fryer for about eight minutes, until golden brown. While they’re still a little greasy and pipng hot, I toss them in granulated sugar. Half the point of this dish is the sauce, and with the infusion of sage and lemon zest, it nails that whole sweet/savory thing. Another ancient recipe, creme anglaise, is about as easy as it gets. Bring the cream, sugar, zest and herbs to just boiling, kill the heat and cover it for 30 minutes. Strain out the cream and temper in the yolks and cook it, stirring constantly, to a thick custard, around 165 degrees. Once cool, its perfect for dipping doughnuts or spinning into ice cream. Pastry Chef Heidi Kaufmann at Fenouil gave me this sauce recipe, it’s really quite good.
Olive Oil Beignet
2 cups milk
2 oz butter
6 oz olive oil
2 tblsp sugar
1/2 tblsp salt
2 cups A.P. flour
8 eggs
1. Bring first 5 ingredients to a boil
2. Sift flour and add to pot, cooking until it forms a ball
3. Transfer the mix to the bowl of a stand mixer, and add the eggs slowly, one or two at a time
4. Pipe and freeze
Lemon Sage Crème Anglaise
by Heidi Kaufmann
3 cups heavy cream
6 oz sugar
pinch of salt
Pulp of ½ vanilla bean
1 handful of loose chopped Sage (stems as well)
Zest of 2 lemons
3/4 of a cup egg yolk
1.Combine first six ingredients and bring to a simmer
2.Turn off the heat and cover, steep for 30 minutes
3.Strain the resulting liquid and return to heat, scald.
4.Temper in egg yolk and cook to nape
I Make Dessert.
16 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, plated dessert, recipe | 5 Responses
Okay, so I’m no Michael Laiskonis. I am however, a pastry chef, and I’m making some pretty tasty delights at Ten-01. I’m going to use my next few posts to describe my current menu, because I’m pretty proud of it. What better place to start than our best seller, The Chocolate Whiskey Cake. It’s a rich flourless cake that contains all my favorite ingredients: chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and booze. The butter is melted and poured over the chocolate. While that cools to room temperature the eggs and sugar are whisked up until they just turn pale and the sugar is dissolved. The to mixtures are then combined, and finished with the booze, which in this case is Maker’s Mark. I pour the batter into a framed half-sheet pan, and bake it in a 250 degree oven in a water bath. The tricky part of this recipe is knowing when it’s done. I pull it when its still loose in the center, and its starting to souffle a little on the edges. It needs to cool and set up before slicing and serving, which I like to do overnite. The cake is covered with ganache and white chocolate lines before slicing. I serve it with a Dulche de Leche ice cream and Brown Butter Caramel. The chocolate flag garnish gives it some height. It’s fucking delicious. To be quite honest, I’m kind of bored with it, and I wish someone else would make it. So here’s the recipe:
1 lb 13 oz chocolate (%68)
1 lb 13 oz butter
13 oz sugar
13 oz whole eggs
3/4 cup liquor (I’ve used whiskey, kaluha, bailey’s, meyer’s…you get the idea)
1. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and place it in a bowl
2. Melt the butter until it just starts to bubble, then pour it over the chocolate-cool to room temp
3. Whisk the eggs and the sugar together in a seperate bowl
4. Whisk the eggs into the chocolate
5. Pour the batter into a prepared pan and bake in a 250 degree oven, in a water bath, for thirty minutes or so.
6. Chill the cake for at least 3 hours before slicing
The Sausage Man Cometh.
10 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious | No Responses
Meet John Baldasarre (sounds like “balls are hairy,” or “bald and scary”.) This picture of him would lead you to believe he is a cold blooded killer, who turns his victims into sasauge. That sentiment is partially true. John is Ten-01’s charcuterie master. He makes killer sausage. He’s also one of the nicest guys you’ll ever meet. He once took me blindfolded and ball-gagged to the secret salami room, where all of his work hangs to dry out and age. He’s even got some full on legs of prosciutto hanging up there. All of this meat eventually is sliced and served on the house charcuterie plate. It’s one of the best in the city, if not the best. Chef, in an interview with Food Arts, named John and his sausage stuffer as his favorite piece of equipment. Working with John is always proves interesting, like the time he almost took off his thumb with the slicer, or the time he made pudding from cocoa and pigs blood. He also has the ability to get the most annoying song possible stuck in your head for the entire day (chang chang chang goes the trolley.) His stories of his commute home on the Number Twelve are always welcome, as are the random late-nite text messages (barko beep fuck.) So here’s a mrjeffmccarthy.com salute to John: I LOVE HIS SAUSAGE!!
Working at Ten-01.
25 February 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, photoshop | No Responses
Have you eaten at Ten-01 yet? If not, why not? We are making incredible food in the Pearl. I am having so much fun right now, and seeing (eating) so much great food, and having such a great time doing it. I love working at Ten-01. Great food prepared and served by great people, in a great venue. Come check it out.
Working Like A Borrowed Donkey.
22 February 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, delicious, faithful readers | 1 Response
Damn I been busy. I have so much to tell you faithful readers, that I have no idea where to begin. I have been one busy pastry chef. I suppose I’ll start with decribing The Creative Presentation of the Week, pictured above. Chef Jack Yoss does it again with another incarnation of Bacon and Eggs. Here we have Quail Egg in The Basket, with Wigwam Virginia Ham and seared Foie. This was served as a special for a guest that often asks Chef to “make up something new.” I’ve been learning alot from Jack, most recently the invaluable assembly of the Foie Gras Torchon. They came out so beautiful and delicious, but I enjoyed it most served atop a piece of tuna. Business at the restaurant is picking up after the post-holiday lull, and It’s getting wild. This past Monday we did a Chartreuse Dinner, then Valentine’s Day, then a record Friday and Saturday nights. The Chartreuse dinner was fun, our bar manager Kelley and Chef created a menu with Chartreuse cocktail pairings. We had Arugula Salad, Glazed Pork Belly with Deviled Quail Egg, Duck Breast with Mushroom Coffee Jus, and Squab with Lobster Ragout. Every course was paired with a Chartreuse cocktail. My dessert, pictured below, was Chartreuse Truffle Cake with Mint Chocolate Sauce and Chartreuse Ice Cream. I pulled out the sugar for this one and made some leaves. It could have come out cleaner, but I was happy with the flavor. It’s been a while since I’ve used a modular mold, but they’ve got great potential. It’s cool seeing something come from concept to plate. Also made by me was a take on the Last Word cocktail, form of boozy syrup and lime sorbet.
Release the Press.
3 February 2008 | Ten 01 | No Responses
Our PR company released the following to local and national publications:
TEN 01 APPOINTS JEFF MCCARTHY AS PASTRY CHEF
PORTLAND, ORE. Adam Berger, owner of Tabla Mediterranean Bistro and Ten 01, has appointed Jeff McCarthy as the pastry chef at Ten 01, located in Portland, Ore. McCarthy, who specializes in pulled sugar and wedding cake design, will be head of the creation and production of all dessert menu items at Ten 01 including cakes, pastries, ice creams, candies, cookies and chocolates. He will also be responsible for all aspects of the pastry department, including menu planning and recipe development. “We are thrilled to add Jeff to our team,” said Berger. “His hand crafted desserts and sweets compliment Chef Jack Yoss’ menu perfectly and will certainly add to our guests dining experience.” McCarthy comes to Ten 01 from Carlyle, also in Portland, where he was the head pastry cook in charge of the development of their seasonal menus. Prior, he was the assistant to the pastry chef where he was head of the daily production of fine artisanal pastries and was an integral part in the recipe development process. McCarthy received a degree from the Culinary Food Trades Program at Orange Ulster Vo-tech in Goshen, N.Y. He l went on to complete a sugar decoration course at the international School of Confectionary Arts in Gaithersburg, Md. and participated in the Professional Chef Program at The Sullivan County Community College in Liberty, N.Y. McCarthy’s past awards include the “Vail Cascade Peak Performer Award- 4th Quarter” in 2007, the “Mohonk Mountain House Culinarian of the Year” in 2000, and the “Master Chef’s Association of France Gold Medal for Pastry Centerpiece” in 2000. “I am excited to join Ten 01’s stellar team” said McCarthy. “I look forward to developing a wide range of creative desserts that truly wow each and every guest.” McCarthy lives in north Portland, but is a native of New Paltz, N.Y. He enjoys snowboarding, skateboarding, and running a food blog, mrjeffmccarthy.com, in his spare time.
Seemingly better than my first run in with the press, at the very least it should boost traffic on this blog. It’s so weird to me that a guy like me gets a press release. I’m just a masterbaker, y’know? Hopefully it will bring more people into the restaurant. Hopefully they’ll order these delicious scallops.
Bread Pudding SG-1
29 January 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, delicious, plated dessert | 2 Responses
Here’s my Brioche Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding, which when alligned correctly, will open a portal to another universe. Okay that’s a lie. You will definitely find it delicious. We’re calling the sauce a blood orange reduction, but it’s really a caramel sauce that uses blood orange puree instead of heavy cream. A quenelle of whipped orange mascarpone cream holds down the orange zest chocolate tuile. That cookie is a sonofabitch to make. I break one in three, so I started baking just two at a time. With a baking time of five minutes, I can get six cookies in about twenty minutes…which sucks. The plate looks bangin’ though, and the bread pudding scraps keep the staff happy. In other news, people are checking out Ten-01 because of this blog. I’ll be damned. I met with a table the other night who’ve read mrjeffmccarthy.com and even mentioned the Irish Car Bomb. They’re mom even blogged about them meeting me! I’ve also started selling some of my desserts at The Armory Cafe, and they are going over well. I’m going to start making them flatbread pizza’s, almond tarts, and maybe some form of high end hot pocket. Still eating well, Mom! Check out this Lamb Chop dinner cooked up for me by our grill cook Richard! Goat Cheese Gnocchi…Yum!!
