Archives Under "plated dessert" (RSS)
I Make Dessert III.
20 March 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, delicious, dessert, faithful readers, plated dessert, recipe | 4 Responses
So we’ve all had creme brulee, and we’ve all had peanut butter and jelly, but who out there among my faithful readers has had PB&J Creme Brulee? I love this fucking dessert. I think it deserves Creative Presentation of the Week. Why, you may ask? Well, it’s the culmination of alot of hard work, during which I subsisted on pb&j sandwiches, and also, I’ve known this peanut butter custard recipe was solid since The Velvet Elvis. This idea had been struggling to come out, and it took the influence of Chef Jack Yoss to see it’s realization. I made him the peanut butter brulee to try and he suggested putting marionberry jam into the ramekin first, ’cause he loved the custard…and he loves pb&j, too. We first tried it in our regular brulee molds, but after one day the jam would seep through the custard and create this gnarly looking scar when you tried to brulee it. We went to a deeper dish to avoid that problem, and also started reducing the jam first to remove any excess moisture. House made honey roasted peanuts are sprinkled on after carmelizing the custard. The shot of chocolate milk actually came about because of a guest suggestion: it was good, but needed chocolate. After some experimentaion, I went with good old Hersheys choclolate syrup to make it because let’s face it, that’s what chocolate milk is. A little heavy cream adds some creaminess, as if this dish needed it. This is my favorite item on the current menu…I don’t know why we don’t sell more of them…C’MON PEOPLE!!! The only thing missing is the bread, and you had some with your salad!! Anyway, here’s the recipes:
Peanut Butter & Jelly Brulee
1 1/3 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups whipping cream
6 tablespoons plus 6 teaspoons sugar
5+ oz creamy peanut butter (do not use old-fashioned style or freshly ground)
8 large egg yolks
marionberry jam as needed (or any other jam that you prefer)
1. Combine milk, cream, sugar and scald
2. Temper in eggs
3. Temper in peanut butter and whisk until smooth
4. Taste the cream. I always end up adding a little more peanut butter, up to 1 cup
5. Strain the cream and chill overnight or at least three hours.
6. Place the jam in a saucepot and reduce it by one-third over low heat, stirring occasionally.
7. Cool the jam slighty and then spread it in an even layer into the bottom of desired (deep) ramekin. Pop them in the freezer to set the jam.
8. When the jam is super cold and won’t be distured by pouring in the custard, pour in the custard
9. Bake the custard in a 300 degree oven, in a water bath for 30 minutes or so, or until set at the edges, and a little loose at the center. Open the oven, turn it off, close the door, and finish them for another 45 minutes.
10. Chill the brulee’s for at least 3 hours before sprinkling some granulated sugar and a blowtorch to carmelize. Sprinkle with loose chopped honey roasted peanuts if desired.
Chocolate Milk
2 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
10 oz Hershey’s Syrup
1. Place all ingredients in a blender and blend. Serve ice cold in a chilled glass.
I Make Dessert.
16 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, plated dessert, recipe | 5 Responses
Okay, so I’m no Michael Laiskonis. I am however, a pastry chef, and I’m making some pretty tasty delights at Ten-01. I’m going to use my next few posts to describe my current menu, because I’m pretty proud of it. What better place to start than our best seller, The Chocolate Whiskey Cake. It’s a rich flourless cake that contains all my favorite ingredients: chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and booze. The butter is melted and poured over the chocolate. While that cools to room temperature the eggs and sugar are whisked up until they just turn pale and the sugar is dissolved. The to mixtures are then combined, and finished with the booze, which in this case is Maker’s Mark. I pour the batter into a framed half-sheet pan, and bake it in a 250 degree oven in a water bath. The tricky part of this recipe is knowing when it’s done. I pull it when its still loose in the center, and its starting to souffle a little on the edges. It needs to cool and set up before slicing and serving, which I like to do overnite. The cake is covered with ganache and white chocolate lines before slicing. I serve it with a Dulche de Leche ice cream and Brown Butter Caramel. The chocolate flag garnish gives it some height. It’s fucking delicious. To be quite honest, I’m kind of bored with it, and I wish someone else would make it. So here’s the recipe:
1 lb 13 oz chocolate (%68)
1 lb 13 oz butter
13 oz sugar
13 oz whole eggs
3/4 cup liquor (I’ve used whiskey, kaluha, bailey’s, meyer’s…you get the idea)
1. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and place it in a bowl
2. Melt the butter until it just starts to bubble, then pour it over the chocolate-cool to room temp
3. Whisk the eggs and the sugar together in a seperate bowl
4. Whisk the eggs into the chocolate
5. Pour the batter into a prepared pan and bake in a 250 degree oven, in a water bath, for thirty minutes or so.
6. Chill the cake for at least 3 hours before slicing
Bread Pudding SG-1
29 January 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, delicious, plated dessert | 2 Responses
Here’s my Brioche Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding, which when alligned correctly, will open a portal to another universe. Okay that’s a lie. You will definitely find it delicious. We’re calling the sauce a blood orange reduction, but it’s really a caramel sauce that uses blood orange puree instead of heavy cream. A quenelle of whipped orange mascarpone cream holds down the orange zest chocolate tuile. That cookie is a sonofabitch to make. I break one in three, so I started baking just two at a time. With a baking time of five minutes, I can get six cookies in about twenty minutes…which sucks. The plate looks bangin’ though, and the bread pudding scraps keep the staff happy. In other news, people are checking out Ten-01 because of this blog. I’ll be damned. I met with a table the other night who’ve read mrjeffmccarthy.com and even mentioned the Irish Car Bomb. They’re mom even blogged about them meeting me! I’ve also started selling some of my desserts at The Armory Cafe, and they are going over well. I’m going to start making them flatbread pizza’s, almond tarts, and maybe some form of high end hot pocket. Still eating well, Mom! Check out this Lamb Chop dinner cooked up for me by our grill cook Richard! Goat Cheese Gnocchi…Yum!!
It’s Not Rocket Scientist.
24 January 2008 | 503, Roux, food science, plated dessert | 2 Responses
Volunteering at the The OMSI Science in the Kitchen Gala was a great time. The appetizer (above) that I helped Chef Sean of Roux with was delicious, and one of the most popular of the bunch. Other hits were Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon with his Foie Creamsicle, Woojay Poynter’s Liquid Truffle Ravioli, and also by us Roux volunteers, Tequila Pudding. Also in attendance with a mille feuille appetizer was Johnny Nunn, whom I staged with at 503. Ranking in as weirdest thing that I tried that night was Brussel Sprout Paper, and I cannot recall it’s creator. The night ran thru an interesting spectrum for me. On the one end were literally hundreds of culinary students tripping over themselves to call me “chef” and help me, and then there was me gushing as I met one of my heros Will Goldfarb as he orchestrated the massive plating of his dessert. Random cool moment: Amidst the insanity of the plating area, an unattended huge pile of black truffles. After all the hoo-ha, organizer of the event and owner of Roux Dwayne Beliakoff threw an after party for all the volunteers at Masu sushi restaurant. Arriving to the party first, I found the hugest sushi display I have ever seen in my life. Second in awesomeness to that was the open bar and the elbow rubbing with some of america’s top chefs. Meanwhile, the restaurant was extremely busy, and the suprise I found on my station on monday morning proved the I was dearly missed.
Ten-01 Desserts…or Chocolate Cake and Friends
13 January 2008 | Ten 01, pate choux, plated dessert | 1 Response
The Chocolate Whiskey Cake with Brown Butter Caramel, pictured above, is fliying out the door. Thanks Tony for teaching me how to make those chocolate flags, and of course the flourless cake. First night comments included “This is the best thing I have ever eaten,” and “Exceptional flavor.” One guest simply crossed himself. Complaints: Too Moist. (WTF?) Esspresso Creme Brulee is a no-brainer, a solid choice for coffee/hazelnut/chocolate lovers. Chocolate Hazelnut shortbread cookies sells it. This will be the first thing I change, as I find it kind of “ho-hum.” To scratch that deep frying itch, I’ve got Olive Oil Beignets with Lemon Sage Anglaise. The beignets are made from pate choux that subs evoo for butter. The anglaise has got this cool greenish color, and the herb/citrus combo nails that sweet/savory niche. I learned that sauce from Heidi at Fenouil. For tree fruit lovers we’ve got the Apple Tart, with Pate Sucree Crust, Frangipane, and Granny Smith Apples. This is served with cinnomin ice cream and an almond tuile cookie, check it out below. I’ve also been working on new truffles, pate fruits and caramels for mignardes.
Sounds like a job for: Brownie Crunchie!!
9 December 2007 | Roux, carlyle, delicious, plated dessert | No Responses
We had a plated dessert for 70 people on Friday night, so I built a frame of brownie crunchie. This is a process that Tony taught me, form of brownie bottom, hazelnut feuilletine, passion fruit creamy layer, and dark chocolate mousse. The sauce was a mango coulis. I chose a cruise ship style hazelnut bubble sugar for a garnish, just for Jake. The show was in full affect complete with palm trees, lime and pink linens, and mood lighting. I was prepped up and outta there before any guests even showed up. We ate at Roux that night, and it was seriously good. I’m always glad to experience the dishes from the customers end, it helps me understand the food better, and therefore cook it better. We had oysters rockefeller, croque salad, crawfish pie (x2 yum!) hushpuppies, butter lettuce salad, chicken hunter style, duck confit, and pork tenderloin. Apple quince crisp for dessert. This was an excellent meal eaten in great atmosphere. I had three IPA’s and two glasses of preseco. Jaybill drove home.
At least Until Dessert.
2 December 2007 | carlyle, cook, dessert, jeff, plated dessert, review | 4 Responses
Friday the Oregonian published a review for Carlyle. Overall we got a “B,” and Reviewer David Sarasohn had this to say about my desserts:
“Then, in the final course, the party din becomes overpowering. Desserts have multiple elements but seem deconstructed, in the fashion of a couple years ago. A dessert called Irish Car Bomb presents a Guinness-laced brownie, ice cream and caramel sauce flavored with Jameson’s whiskey and Bailey’s Irish Cream, plus crushed pretzel.
Pretzel?
In overkill, it ranks with Velvet Elvis, featuring peanut butter creme brulee, caramelized banana and bacon. Actually, the bacon is separate, on a wafer, but peanut butter is a curious flavor for creme brulee, and getting the three elements in your mouth all at once does not convince you that Elvis Presley was an underrated culinary thinker. On the other hand, it might make your sideburns grow.
The same problems beset deep-fried apple bread pudding (with brown butter ice cream and a curiously uninviting crust) and poached pear with chocolate sauce and cream cheese ice cream — which, once you calm down and get used to the idea, could have worked, except for the large doughnut-like item in the middle.
The problem isn’t lack of skill; a less vociferous dessert of cheesecake three ways was admirable. But the general dessert theme does suggest that the party has gotten out of hand.”
Wow. I’ve been reveiwed. THIS IS AMAZING!! Somebdody is eating and bustin’ on desserts that I made up!!! HAHAHAHAHHA!!!!! I MADE IT!!! HAHAHAHAA!!!!! AND THEY’RE SCARED!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAA. I love food. It’s visceral nature incites the use of words like “vociferous“, and quotes like “it might make your sideburns grow.” I guess according to this reveiwer, my desserts are a little outside the comfort zone, and a little over the top. Well fuck YEAH!! Here’s another interesting quote from a user named Altas of the much read Portland Food & Drink.com:
“The O lacks credibilty … why is David Sarasohn even going to restaurants on the O’s dime with his palate??? ”
And another quote by a user named Diner in the same forum:
“Friends and fellow diners please ignore The Oregonian food critics as incompetent, mean spirited people with self-serving interests. Sample all the food of Portland and decide for yourselves where to return for excellence.”
I plan to write David Sarasohn and thank him for his honest impressions of my food, and for eating at Carlyle. I just got off the phone with Patrick, and he told me I need to come in tommorow, and prep desserts. We sold over 30. A busy night!!Almost sold out on Bread Puddings!! I guess any publicity is good publicity. Thats food and beverage. I’m guessin I’ll have to put cobbler on the menu now. And maybe cupcakes.
New Menu Items
20 November 2007 | carlyle, chocolate, delicious, dessert, faithful readers, food porn, plated dessert | 2 Responses
Faithful readers, it’s time to change ‘em up a little bit, we’ve gotta keep it exciting, right? The Rosemary and Pinenut Tartlette is coming off. I can’t give that thing away. Also bye-bye is the Cheesecake Three Ways, because its too much work. I’m bustin’ my ass over a mediocre dessert, when I should have been making Chocolate Flourless , Passionfruit, and Creme Fraiche Sherbet, pictured above. Sauced it with Valrhona, ’cause it’s good Also we have Poached Pear, Olive Oil beignet, and Valrhona milk chocolate. Take a look below. We poached the pears in a bag for six hours in Jake’s thermal bath. This is attempting that “in the woods” feeling that I was trying to capture with the Pinenut Tart. Maybe this time the clarified butter and chocolate will make it happen. That’s right, we got Valrhona on both, peeps. You’ve tried it , right? Also revised was The Irish Car Bomb, which is now Gunniess stout brownie, Bailey’s anglaise, and Jameson’s salted whiskey caramel ice cream. And don’t forget to check Elvis’s out new bacon cookie!!!
Top Sellers
11 November 2007 | carlyle, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 2 Responses
After three weeks of my first menu, The Irish Car Bomb is most definitely the best selling dessert at Carlyle. I guess its not that suprising, it’s clearly the most decadent choice. Plating is pretty basic, but got some ideas. Flavors alone are selling it. Clearly, plating isn’t everything. It’s a keeper. Coming in second, my sweetheart dessert, is the Deep Fried Bread Pudding. Another decadent choice by way of deep frying, and caramel apple and croissant baked custard. The brown butter ice cream that goes with it it is probably my favorite ice cream ever. Scooped and sprinkled with a little Fluer de Sel at service, Emeril say BAM! Sam Mason’s brown milk rules! The mulled cider gastrique ties it all together in a way I never would have imagined. Thats because Jaybill did.
The First Menu.
27 October 2007 | bacon, carlyle, custard, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 2 Responses
The first night of the new dessert menu for Carlyle…well…it kicked ass. The Car Bomb was of course the big seller, closely followed by The Deep Fried Caramel Apple Bread Pudding. I was really happy with how the Cheesecake Three Ways went out, it was a study in cheesy custard. We only sold two Velvet Elvis, but it was so great to hear the chef call it out across the kitchen, and to see dessert go out with bacon on it. When the runner picked it up I called “Elvis has left the kitchen!” The Rosemary Pinenut Tartlette was the sleeper, but a guest told the owner it was “damn good.” I also put out a special order Apple Pie, for which we charged an exorbitant price. The menu was so well recieved by the staff and guests it almost made me forget about this.
