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Bread Pudding SG-1

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Here’s my Brioche Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding, which when alligned correctly, will open a portal to another universe.  Okay that’s a lie.  You will definitely find it delicious.  We’re calling the sauce a blood orange reduction, but it’s really a caramel sauce that uses blood orange puree instead of heavy cream.  A quenelle of whipped orange mascarpone cream holds down the orange zest chocolate tuile.  That cookie is a sonofabitch to make.  I break one in three, so I started baking just two at a time.  With a baking time of five minutes, I can get six cookies in about twenty minutes…which sucks.  The plate looks bangin’ though, and the bread pudding scraps keep the staff happy.  In other news, people are checking out Ten-01 because of this blog.  I’ll be damned.  I met with a table the other night who’ve read mrjeffmccarthy.com  and even mentioned the Irish Car Bomb.  They’re mom even blogged about them meeting me!  I’ve also started selling some of my desserts at The Armory Cafe, and they are going over well.  I’m going to start making them flatbread pizza’s, almond tarts, and maybe some form of high end hot pocket.  Still eating well, Mom!  Check out this Lamb Chop dinner cooked up for me by our grill cook Richard! Goat Cheese Gnocchi…Yum!!

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It’s Not Rocket Scientist.

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Volunteering at the The OMSI Science in the Kitchen Gala was a great time.  The appetizer (above) that I helped Chef Sean of Roux with was delicious, and one of the most popular of the bunch.  Other hits were Gabriel Rucker of Le Pigeon with his Foie Creamsicle,  Woojay Poynter’s Liquid Truffle Ravioli, and also by us Roux volunteers, Tequila Pudding.  Also in attendance with a mille feuille appetizer was Johnny Nunn, whom I staged with at 503.  Ranking in as weirdest thing that I tried that night was Brussel Sprout Paper, and I cannot recall it’s creator.  The night ran thru an interesting spectrum for me.  On the one end were literally hundreds of culinary students tripping over themselves to call me “chef” and help me, and then there was me gushing as I met one of my heros Will Goldfarb as he orchestrated the massive plating of his dessert. Random cool moment: Amidst the insanity of the plating area, an unattended huge pile of black truffles.  After all the hoo-ha, organizer of the event and owner of Roux Dwayne Beliakoff threw an after party for all the volunteers at Masu sushi restaurant.  Arriving to the party first, I found the hugest sushi display I have ever seen in my life.  Second in awesomeness to that was the open bar and the elbow rubbing with some of america’s top chefs.  Meanwhile, the restaurant was extremely busy, and the suprise I found on my station on monday morning proved the I was dearly missed.


Ten-01 Desserts…or Chocolate Cake and Friends

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The Chocolate Whiskey Cake with Brown Butter Caramel, pictured above, is fliying out the door.  Thanks Tony for teaching me how to make those chocolate flags, and of course the flourless cake.  First night comments included “This is the best thing I have ever eaten,” and “Exceptional flavor.” One guest simply crossed himself.  Complaints: Too Moist. (WTF?)  Esspresso Creme Brulee is a no-brainer, a solid choice for coffee/hazelnut/chocolate lovers.   Chocolate Hazelnut shortbread cookies sells it.  This will be the first thing I change, as I find it kind of “ho-hum.”  To scratch that deep frying itch, I’ve got Olive Oil Beignets with Lemon Sage Anglaise.  The beignets are made from pate choux that subs evoo for butter.  The anglaise has got this cool greenish color, and the herb/citrus combo nails that sweet/savory niche.  I learned that sauce from Heidi at Fenouil.  For tree fruit lovers we’ve got the  Apple Tart, with Pate Sucree Crust, Frangipane, and Granny Smith Apples.  This is served with  cinnomin ice cream and an almond tuile cookie, check it out below.   I’ve also been working on new truffles,  pate fruits and caramels for mignardes.

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Sounds like a job for: Brownie Crunchie!!

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We had a plated dessert for 70 people on Friday night, so I built a frame of brownie crunchie.  This is a process that Tony taught me, form of brownie bottom, hazelnut feuilletine, passion fruit creamy layer, and dark chocolate mousse.  The sauce was a mango coulis.  I chose a cruise ship style hazelnut bubble sugar for a garnish, just for Jake.  The show was in full affect complete with palm trees, lime and pink linens, and mood lighting.  I was prepped up and outta there before any guests even showed up.  We ate at Roux that night, and it was seriously good.  I’m always glad to experience the dishes from the customers end, it helps me understand the food better, and therefore cook it better.  We had oysters rockefeller, croque salad, crawfish pie (x2 yum!) hushpuppies, butter lettuce salad, chicken hunter style, duck confit, and pork tenderloin.  Apple quince crisp for dessert.  This was an excellent meal eaten in great atmosphere.   I had three IPA’s and two glasses of preseco.  Jaybill drove home.


At least Until Dessert.

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 Friday the Oregonian published a review for Carlyle. Overall we got a “B,” and  Reviewer David Sarasohn had this to say about my desserts:

“Then, in the final course, the party din becomes overpowering. Desserts have multiple elements but seem deconstructed, in the fashion of a couple years ago. A dessert called Irish Car Bomb presents a Guinness-laced brownie, ice cream and caramel sauce flavored with Jameson’s whiskey and Bailey’s Irish Cream, plus crushed pretzel.

Pretzel?

In overkill, it ranks with Velvet Elvis, featuring peanut butter creme brulee, caramelized banana and bacon. Actually, the bacon is separate, on a wafer, but peanut butter is a curious flavor for creme brulee, and getting the three elements in your mouth all at once does not convince you that Elvis Presley was an underrated culinary thinker. On the other hand, it might make your sideburns grow.

The same problems beset deep-fried apple bread pudding (with brown butter ice cream and a curiously uninviting crust) and poached pear with chocolate sauce and cream cheese ice cream — which, once you calm down and get used to the idea, could have worked, except for the large doughnut-like item in the middle.

The problem isn’t lack of skill; a less vociferous dessert of cheesecake three ways was admirable. But the general dessert theme does suggest that the party has gotten out of hand.”

Wow.  I’ve been reveiwed.  THIS IS AMAZING!! Somebdody is eating and bustin’ on desserts that I made up!!! HAHAHAHAHHA!!!!! I MADE IT!!! HAHAHAHAA!!!!! AND THEY’RE SCARED!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAA. I love food.  It’s visceral nature incites the use of words like “vociferous“, and quotes like “it might make your sideburns grow.”  I guess according to this reveiwer, my desserts are a little outside the comfort zone, and a little over the top. Well fuck YEAH!!  Here’s another interesting quote from a user named Altas of the much read Portland Food & Drink.com

“The O lacks credibilty … why is David Sarasohn even going to restaurants on the O’s dime with his palate??? ” 

And another quote by a user named Diner in the same forum:

“Friends and fellow diners please ignore The Oregonian food critics as incompetent, mean spirited people with self-serving interests. Sample all the food of Portland and decide for yourselves where to return for excellence.”

I plan to write David Sarasohn and thank him for his honest impressions of my food, and for eating at Carlyle.  I just got off the phone with Patrick, and he told me I need to come in tommorow, and prep desserts.  We sold over 30.  A busy night!!Almost sold out on Bread Puddings!!  I guess any publicity is good publicity.  Thats food and beverage.  I’m guessin I’ll have to put cobbler on the menu now.  And maybe cupcakes.

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New Menu Items

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Faithful readers, it’s time to change ‘em up a little bit, we’ve gotta keep it exciting, right?  The Rosemary and Pinenut Tartlette  is coming off.  I can’t give that thing away.  Also bye-bye is the Cheesecake Three  Ways, because its too much work.  I’m bustin’ my ass over a mediocre dessert, when I should have been making Chocolate Flourless , Passionfruit, and Creme Fraiche Sherbet, pictured above.   Sauced it with Valrhona, ’cause it’s good  Also we have Poached Pear, Olive Oil beignet, and Valrhona milk chocolate.  Take a look below.  We poached the pears in a bag for six hours in Jake’s thermal bath.  This is attempting that “in the woods” feeling that I was trying to capture with the Pinenut Tart.  Maybe this time the clarified butter and chocolate will make it happen.  That’s right, we got Valrhona on both, peeps.  You’ve tried it , right?   Also revised was The Irish Car Bomb, which is now Gunniess stout brownie, Bailey’s anglaise, and Jameson’s salted whiskey caramel ice cream.  And don’t forget to check Elvis’s out  new bacon cookie!!! 

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Top Sellers

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After three weeks of my first menu, The Irish Car Bomb is most definitely the best selling dessert at Carlyle.  I guess its not that suprising, it’s clearly the most decadent choice.  Plating is pretty basic, but got some ideas. Flavors alone are selling it.   Clearly, plating isn’t everything.  It’s a keeper.  Coming in second, my sweetheart dessert, is the Deep Fried Bread Pudding.  Another decadent choice by way of deep frying, and caramel apple and croissant baked custard.  The brown butter ice cream that goes with it it is probably my favorite ice cream ever.  Scooped and sprinkled with a little Fluer de Sel at service, Emeril say BAM!   Sam Mason’s brown milk rules!  The mulled cider gastrique ties it all together in a way I never would have imagined.  Thats because Jaybill did.


The First Menu.

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The first night of the new dessert menu for Carlyle…well…it kicked ass.  The Car Bomb was of course the big seller, closely followed by The Deep Fried Caramel Apple Bread Pudding.  I was really happy with how the Cheesecake Three Ways went out, it was a study in cheesy custard.  We only sold two Velvet Elvis, but it was so great to hear the chef call it out across the kitchen, and to see dessert go out with bacon on it.  When the runner picked it up I called “Elvis has left the kitchen!”  The Rosemary Pinenut Tartlette was the sleeper, but a guest told the owner it was “damn good.”  I also put out a special order Apple Pie, for which we charged an exorbitant price.  The menu was so well recieved by the staff and guests it almost made me forget about this.


Gaelic Automoblie Explosion.

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Its a sad state of affairs when I have to event desserts in Photoshop, but right now, breathing is cost-prohibitive,  never mind ingredient shopping.  Anyway, here’s a plated dessert version of an Irish Car Bomb.  I found all the recipes on the web fairly easily, so I’m surprised that this hasn’t apparently been done before.  Learning the term New American Cuisine inspired me to look to what Americans love, which is of course, gluttony.  And drinking.  So why not use the flavors of your favorite party drink to create a truly decadent delight?  Hopefully I’ll get to make this soon. Guiness Stout Brownie, Bailey’s Ice Cream, and Jameson’s Caramel Sauce can all be found on the recipe page here.   I got the idea for the presentation from Charlie Trotter’s Dessert Book, which I fall asleep reading most nights.  I recommend serving this with an ice cold Gewürztraminer, just to add a refreshing element, form of, more alcohol!! YAY Gluttony!! 


I Gotta Make Moves.

chefjeffaok1.jpgWell everybody, I’m pretty much healed up from the broken arm, and need to get back to work.  I’ll be part time at Fenouil until further notice, and while it was gracious of them to let me keep my job, part time won’t pay the bills.  I’ve created a new page of recent plated dessert ideas to direct prospective employers to here.   These are mainly the desserts from my tasting with Chef Pascal, and mostly Keri’s pictures, so it showcases my latest and greatest, photographed in the best possible way.  So hopefully, in the next week, I’ll have additional employment prospects and I can start climbing out of this hole I’m in.   Also exciting this week:  I recieved my first super-top-secret Daring Bakers challenge!!