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How to Gain 15 Pounds in 20 Days.

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 As my faithful readers know all to well, I love to eat.  My recent trip to Europe was a whirlwind of raw milk cheese, artisinal beer, deliciously fresh produce, excellent (and cheap) wine, amazing chocolate and pastries, and many, many, good eats.  Kate of course, was right there with me.  Having said that,  I learned one very important thing:  You can get crappy food in any country.  For some reason I thought in Europe, the age-old birth place of deliciousness, you could throw a rock with your eyes closed and hit a good plate of food.  Not true.  In fact, when you throw that rock, you should throw it hard, and hope you hit the cook.  While I’m not the type of diner that nit-picks every little thing and sets out to not like things, I truly enjoy food and eating. But man there was some serious SHIT.  Also, why can’t you get a fucking coffee to go?  They simply do not offer paper cups in European countries.  Okay maybe they do, but we didn’t see them or know how to ask for them.  No, they want you to sit down, and if you do, the’re going to charge you do so.  Not until Paris did we find a Starbucks, which just felt wierd.  Oh, and I did go to McDonalds, and I did get the Royal with CheeseAnd a beer!  But only because we were tired and desperate.  Anyway, we had mostly good meals, and some things that I’ve never tried before.  We had some really incredible meals as well.   We ate chocolate in Switzerland, and waffles in Belgium.  We ate spaetzle in Germany, and gnocci in Italy.  I ate veal sweetbreads on the Champs Elysees.   Over the next few months, or however long it takes, I will at random intervals be posting about my culinary adventures abroad.  I predict you will enjoy thoroughly.   sore-thumb.jpg


I Make Dessert VI.

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When I’m not making the dinner desserts, or random birthday cakes, or setting up banquet items, more than likely you’ll see me slaving away with my favorite robot making mignardises.  The little tray of sweets we put down for free with every check is arguably one of the best feebies in the city.  The abundant array of truffles, chocolate candies, caramels, and pate fruit is so great it became the third course on our popular Power Lunch.  I’m so busy with these that Chef and Arturo can both be found helping me out polishing or filling molds.  Most of the recipes I use for these come from my new favorite cookbook Chocolates and Confections by Peter Grewling.  This book is loaded with recipes and valuble techniques.  Buy it.  Read it.  Know it.  Another thing I can be seen doing lately is making crackers.  That’s right faithful readers, crackers.  One of the easiest recipes I posses is also one of the tastiest.  Lavash crackers simply contain flour, garlic powder, water and olive oil.  They are rolled really thin and brushed with a little more water, to hold on the salt, seeds, cheese or other desired flavoring.  At the Vail Cascade, I made six full sheet pans of these everyday.  They are crunchy and delicious, and really easy to make.  Since I started making them at Ten-01, I have gotten a great response, with many customers asking for more.  Seriously, you should try making them, here’s the recipe:

Lavash Crackers

1 1/4 lb. all purpose flour

3/4 oz. garlic powder

1 1/2 cups water

1/4 cup olive oil

1.  Place all ingredients in the bowl of a stand mixer and work with the dough hook on low speed

2. Beat up the dough for about 8 minutes, until it looks smooth

3. Chill for 30 minutes before rolling out on a well floured surface

4. Roll the dough paper thin and transfer to a well greased cookie sheet

 5. Slice the cracker lengthwise to create several smaller crackers

6. Brush with water and sprinkle with salt and desired other topping

7. Bake in a 325 degree oven until golden brown, about 10 minutes.  Serve with cheese or butter 

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Tumultuous Times.

Well faithful readers, stormjeff-copy.jpgthis week I gave my two weeks notice at Fenouil.  That’s right, I’m resigning from my pastry cook position, as it seems best for all concerned.  I’ve been waffling back and forth on this for weeks, but the factual truth is that I’m going nowhere at this job.  It’s a great kitchen to work in, but ever since I broke my wrist and couldn’t work for 6 weeks, things have been going down hill.  It’s mainly personal, but It seems to be the best course of action for everyone involved that I just call it.  86 Jeff.  On to the next one.  I’ve also decided to broaden my horizons a bit…I took a line cook job at Roux.  I’ve realized that you don’t make enough scratch as a pastry cook, and most restaurants don’t need more than just the pastry chef.  I’m not saying I’ve given up on pastry, I just wanna switch it up a bit.  Besides, I love all food…and I can cook.  I got a really cool vibe when I staged at Roux.  The place has great heart, everyone seems like they want to be there.  I worked part of a brunch shift this past Sunday, poaching eggs and such, and it seemed like a really cool kitchen.  I think there will be opportunity to learn, and maybe help out the pastry chef with some prep as well.  The main thing is that I can walk there in about 8 minutes, and they make all thier own bacon.  I’m also seriously considering going back to school next summer and finishing my degree.  Crazy times, man, crazy times.


Thanksgiving

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I cooked in total about two full days, okay maybe fifteen hours, and it was good.  Jaybill and I did the turkey four ways: wing confit, bacon wrapped thighs, smoked legs, and deep fried breasts. For appetizers we had shrimp salad crostini, sekel pear with fig and blue cheese, and several delicious stinky cheeses from New Seasons, courtesy of Sasha, our friend who works there.  As side dishes we had Gravy Bombs (above, the creative presentation of the week,) sweet potato crumble, roasted root vegetables, garlic mashies, and spinach salad with bacon vinegrette.  Dessert was comprised of cranberry sorbet, apple pie, pumpkin pie and lemon meringue pies.  and since it was Keri’s birthday the following day, I made her a cake.  It was Kaluha Chocolate Flourless with toffee crust and White Chocolate Basil Ice Cream.  I didn’t take too many pictures, but it was a great meal that we all enjoyed.  I was souind asleep bt 10 pm.


Best TV Moment to Date

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We jumped up and bally-hooed when Michael Symon took The Next Iron Chef title this past Sunday Night.  I’ve become a huge fan of this guy over the past month.  Watching the series and reading The Soul of a Chef by Michael Ruhlman, how could I not?  His cooking is solid and his personality is just what the Iron Chef’s need.  I try to catch of Iron Chef America as much as possible, and Next Iron Chef has been a much discussed weekly event.  Judge Michael Rulhman always seemed like a straight dick on the show, but his book was actually really good.  It spent several chapters exploring the life of Chef Symon and his restaurant Lola.   Good reading.  I guess if you co-write The French Laundry cookbook, you’ve got a right to be a dickhead judge on Iron Chef.   All the judges were really objective actually, and deciding between Symon and John Besh was no easy task.  I really thought Besh had it there for awhile.  It was a good thing they had Morimoto and the other Chefs to help ‘em sort it all out. 


Turkey Dinner

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Another home cooked meal created by two brothers.  Here we have roast turkey breast, store bought salad mix that we churched up with some basic vinegrette and Pecorino, and Jaybill’s sweet potato crumble.  We stuffed basil, garlic, and salt and pepper under the skin of this 3 pound turkey breast before browning it, then roasting it.  We deglazed the pan with cheap red wine and then rouxed it, added chicken stock, cream, and milk.  This reduced into a rich pan gravy cream sauce concotion that of course was finished by swirling in chunks of cold butter. It was silky and smooth, rich and delicious. The sweet potato crumble was a basic mashed sweet potato, topped with struesel, and baked.  This idea plauged Jaybill all day, he wanted to eat it so bad.  Quite delectible.  We drank numerous crispy Longhammers to wash it all down.  Hooray Dinner!!


Why I work at Fancy Restaurants Part 2

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Here is some of the delicious food being served at Carlyle.  Clockwise from top-left: Black Cod with Suedoise sauce, roasted beets, and apple frisee salad.  Confit Octopus with Breton Vegetables, broth of hamhock, manila clams and thyme.  Yellowfin Tuna with Fresh Corn Polenta, roasted Chanterelles, and Poached Duck Egg.  Hamachi , with Dashi broth, bok choy,  and crispy wonton.   The Hamachi was prepared by Chef de Cuisine Patrick Shultz, and the other dishes by Sous Chef Jake Martin.   These guys are fun to work with, and are creating some dynamite food.  I hope this post will convince them to cook me up that foie dish.


Total Immersion Bacterial Success

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I for one am sick of sickness.  My immune system is in for a policy change.  I believe the more foriegn bacteria I am exposed to, the more likely I’ll be able to deal with anything that rolls my way.  Look at my dogs; they eat shit, lick each others asses, and delight in finding nasty dead animals to roll on.  They are never sick.  From now on I will go out of my way to drink from random water fountains, eat undercooked or raw meat, share drinks with people, pet strange dogs, jump in front of sneezes, high-five bums, and eat at least one thing off the floor daily.  The food catch in the dish pit will be my buffet.  My plan is have a catalogue of random bacteria so complete, that my system is never suprised by a new one.  YOU WANNA LIVE FOREVER!!!


A Tasting for Carlyle

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This week I did a tasting for Carlyle restaurant in Northwest Portland.  When I  met with the owner Bruce Goldberg  I fell in love with Carlyle’s expansive kitchen and cozy, Gotham-esque dining room.  I really wanted this position, so I  challenged myself to come up with some intersting flavors and presentations.  The Irish Car Bomb was a no-brainer choice, as everyone I mentioned the idea to couldn’t wait to try it.  Continuing with the deconstruction-nostalgia trend, I really wanted to try a play on the flavors of peanut butter and jelly.  I came up with the PB&J Creme Brulee Duo, and served it with vanilla tuiles to symbolize the white bread.  Lastly, I wanted to do something a little outrageous, but also nailing that comfort food niche.  Stuffed Butter Poached Pears Wrapped in Brioche were born,  Thanks Charlie. Figs, candied walnuts, and marscapone made up the filling, and it went out with a Creme Fraiche Sherbet.


Why I Work in Fancy Restaurants

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Cooking for a living can be a really tough job.  The hours are long,  pay is low, and the prep monotonous.  If you work for a good house, however, the rewards can be…delicious.  Pictured above is a typical daily diet for me while I’m at work.  On the left, was my lunch of grilled salmon with fingerling potatoes, spinach and yellow pepper salad, and some kind of rich butter sauce which I slurped up to fast to define.  On the right, dinner, a mid-rare Kobe tri-tip with grilled asparagus and “Kobe Sauce, ” which is made from two kinds of stock and reduced with some kind of wine.  Sure, I don’t eat like this everyday, and when I do, I usually have to scarf it down over a garbage pail as I’m running to pull something from the oven.  But hey, I eat well.  The free coffee is also a perk.