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	<title>Jeff McCarthy &#187; faithful readers</title>
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	<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com</link>
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	<pubDate>Wed, 14 Mar 2012 22:07:30 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>McRamen.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/12/17/mcramen/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/12/17/mcramen/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 17 Dec 2011 18:20:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[creative presentation of the week]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2583</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Chef&#8217;s and faithful readers the world over have had a long standing obsession with ramen, and not just the instant ramen that has fed countless generations of college students the world over. This Japanese comfort food calls more and more food lovers into it&#8217;s ranks yearly, but relatively few have taken the challenge of trying [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2599" title="1060-mcramenresize" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/1060-mcramenresize.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<p><a title="bastards " href="http://thebastardchef.blogspot.com/2011/08/ants-in-my-kitchen-and-attempt-at.html">Chef&#8217;s</a> and<a title="MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/xw17t.jpg"> faithful readers</a> the world over have had a long standing obsession with ramen, and not just the instant ramen that has fed countless generations of college students the world over. This Japanese comfort food calls more and more food lovers into it&#8217;s ranks yearly, but relatively few have taken the challenge of trying to make their own.  <a title="basically a bad ass" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Chang">David Chang&#8217;</a>s expose on the topic in the first issue of <a title="SUBSCRIBE TO IT NOW!!!" href="http://www.mcsweeneys.net/luckypeach">Lucky Peach</a> magazine recently has had many kitchens buzzing, and mine is no exception. I tried making his recipes verbatim soon after reading the magazine, and felt so armed to start fucking around with my own version.</p>
<p>The noodles for this ended up being Chang&#8217;s recipe, verbatim. I experimented with making potato noodles using potato flour; didn&#8217;t work. The noodles kept expanding then turning to mush when I went to cook them. After I had given up I was told that I should have worked in <a title="rheology modifier," href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xanthan_gum">xanthan</a> as a binder, which one day I may try.</p>
<p>For the broth, we did a traditional corned beef braise; wherein a beef brisket is brined for five days, then braised for four hours in a low oven. We strained off the broth, augmented it with a simple beef stock made from cows&#8217; necks. We steeped in <a title="kelp" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kombu">konbu</a> and ground dried shiitake mushrooms, and reduced the broth by one third. The traditional seasoning for ramen broth comes from what&#8217;s called tare (tar-ay,) a rich syrupy stuff made from chicken backs, soy, <a title="It is a kind of rice wine similar to sake," href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mirin">mirin</a>, sake, and bacon. We tweaked this by using hanger steak instead of the chicken backs, and smoked ham hock along with the bacon. The tare is blended into the broth right before it hits the bowl. Again, I adapted all of this from Lucky Peach, so I hope David Chang doesn&#8217;t sue me. However, I guess if he was going to,<a title="crack pie is copywritten" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2010/12/15/copyright-infringement-pie/"> </a><a title="crack pir is copywritten" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2010/12/15/copyright-infringement-pie/">he would have already.</a><br />
The idea behind this dish was to &#8220;fuse&#8221; corn beef and cabbage with ramen, and the garnishes reinforced this. We had baby carrots, roasted fingerling potatoes, raw shredded cabbage, pickled mushrooms, and a breaded and fried soft boiled egg. We made a radicchio chip that had the very similar texture and flavor to the traditional <a title="edible seaweed " href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nori">nori</a>. The hunk of corned beef was pull apart tender, warmed through in a little bit of the ramen broth.</p>
<p>Overall, I was extremely happy with this dish. As my own toughest critic, I have a few critiques. Firstly, ramen should not be part of a multi-coursed dinner. Ramen IS a multi-coursed dinner. I did not have enough broth in relation to the other ingredients in the bowl because I was worried about over filling people, as is my custom. Ramen should be a huge satisfying meal unto itself, not just a stop on runaway fusion train.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s worth mentioning that<a title="national food blog" href="http://pdx.eater.com/"> PDX Eater</a> did a little piece on this dish for their reoccurring<a title="That's ME!!" href="http://pdx.eater.com/archives/2011/12/05/tentops-jeff-mccarthy.php"> Chef in the Kitchen </a>feature. A big and warm thanks to <a title="her blog " href="http://asteriskerin.com/about.html">Erin Dejesus</a> for her great article and ongoing interest in KitchenCru, and as many thanks to the talented photographer <a title="her site " href="http://www.dinaavila.com/">Dina Avila </a>for her beautiful photos. The article is cool in an of it self and all, all though I was so excited during the shoot I forgot to put the corned beef in it. The real joy of this article however, came the day after; when people started to comment. Check it out, it&#8217;s worth a good laugh.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2600" title="1062-mcramenresize" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/1062-mcramenresize.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
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		<item>
		<title>Best Job in Portland.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/12/07/best-job-in-portland/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/12/07/best-job-in-portland/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 08 Dec 2011 01:31:41 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[kitchencru]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2548</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Anyone who has visited me at Kitchen Cru more than likely now struggles with a deep seeded jealously. At the very least; they leave puzzled by my insistent smile, and my inability to explain what it is exactly that I do. The actual physical work includes such glorious and noble tasks as compost bin scrubbing, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2588" title="img_9067" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_9067.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
<p>Anyone who has visited me at<a title="yeah, that one" href="http://kitchencru.biz/"> Kitchen Cru</a> more than likely now struggles with a deep seeded jealously. At the very least; they leave puzzled by my insistent smile, and my inability to explain what it is exactly that I do. The actual physical work includes such glorious and noble tasks as compost bin scrubbing, towel folding, and applying the occasional &#8220;<a title="clean the fuck out of " href="http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=How%27s%20your%20father">How&#8217;s Your Father?</a>&#8221; to various kitchen equipment. Truth be told, these everyday kitchen tasks seem few and far between over a forty hour week. That&#8217;s right, I said 40 hour week. Jealous yet, cooks? Did I mention vacation? Sick days? I had to look that last one up!</p>
<p>I remember when I was first coming up in kitchens, on the fringe of an era where Chef&#8217;s still hit their cooks. Part of the dogma back then used the term &#8216;Forty Hour Man&#8217; as a dis for the uncommitted, the cooks who didn&#8217;t let &#8220;The Life&#8217; rule their lives. Many of those early ideas have left me wanting, constantly striving to reach a balance between inside and outside, career vs. life. What I wanted from a kitchen and what I felt was &#8220;owed&#8221; them. I&#8217;ve come to realize, I have zero fucks to give for kitchen dogma. I mean sure, there are certain things to which I subscribe. I can&#8217;t deny that my personal spirituality, my &#8216;religion&#8217; is balls deep in kitchen concepts, the catch phrases that repeat in my head as I stalk and hover around the kitchen. &#8220;Behind You&#8221; can mean &#8216;Get out of the way,&#8217; and &#8216;Ive got your back&#8217; in the same breath. <a title="putting in place" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mise_en_place">Mise en place</a> IS my religion, not to get all <a title="such a boss" href="http://blogs.dallasobserver.com/cityofate/bourdain.jpg">Bourdain</a> on you. And if it did come down to taking sides, <a title="fuck YELP!" href="http://www.yelp.com/topic/portland-jeff-mccarthy-doesnt-like-yelpers">you know where I stand</a>. But I&#8217;ll be damned if I&#8217;m going to spend 60-70 hour weeks breaking my back to make 35 K a year. It&#8217;s just not sustainable. That&#8217;s why I feel this kitchen was basically designed for me to run.</p>
<p>At <a title="gotta love Eater" href="http://pdx.eater.com/tags/kitchencru">Kitchen Cru</a> no two days are the same. One day I&#8217;ll witness thousands of <a title="from Petunia's Pastries" href="http://www.facebook.com/PetuniasPiesandPastries">vegan pastries</a> spring into existence; the sweet smells mingling with that of caramel smelling <a title="tails &amp; trotters" href="http://www.tailsandtrotters.com/">smoke from ham hocks</a>; tight like apples. Across the kitchen a tasting at the counter sports smiles and it&#8217;s own crisp odors, and<a title="The best pies available in Portland" href="http://www.facebook.com/PiekuPie"> beyond, PIES!!</a> Another day you might find a little <a title="The Portland Meat Collective " href="http://www.pdxmeat.com/">whole animal butchery</a> going on, a <a title="with Adam Sappington" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/cookingclass-pmcwidea.jpg">pig</a>, lamb, or <a title="with Andrew Garrett" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_0119.jpg">deer</a>. And of course, yes; there is <a title="the supper club" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/category/tentop/">tentop</a>. My infrequent posts to this blog are testament to my busyness with that project. I&#8217;ve gotten to cook with my baby again, too. Which <a title="dawwww" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_0765.jpg">has been nice,</a> to say the least. Even <a title="like a boss" href="http://youtu.be/ptz4ug4m8UA">taught a class</a> with her. The event space will keep a kitchen manager busy as well,<a title="with Ingrid!!" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/wine-dinner.jpg"> wine dinners</a> and <a title="on First Thursday" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/market.jpg">market places</a> and beer tastings and what have you. In spite of being at a nexus of all things culinary, it&#8217;s another aspect of the job that truly satisfies: the community. This kitchen draws the best people, so much talent has passed through these doors in only eight months. I&#8217;ve learned so much, just from being there. &#8216;The right place at the right time&#8217; has never rang more true to me. You probably can see through all this nonsense, my wack attempts at waxing poetic. The truth of the matter is that the constant shwag supply chain that I am at the end of. From the numerous &#8220;Can you taste this?&#8221; requests to the beloved &#8220;Want this?&#8221; as various cuts of fresh animal or boxes of produce are thrust upon me. I&#8217;m a fat ass, it&#8217;s widely known. My<a title="Sadly I took this picture, so I couldn't be in it" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/btona.jpg"> faithful readers </a>know that mama never taught me how to say no to food. I should mention as well that a HUGE part of my love of KitchenCru has to do with my employer, Michael Madigan (pictured above.) I don&#8217;t want to get to into the details, he&#8217;ll give me shit about vying for a raise. Suffice to say he takes care of me, and he&#8217;s a blast to work with.</p>
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		<title>Sweetbread Pastilla from Mark Dunleavy.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/11/12/sweetbread-pastilla-from-mark-dunleavy-dick/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/11/12/sweetbread-pastilla-from-mark-dunleavy-dick/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 12 Nov 2011 21:32:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[creative presentation of the week]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[offal]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2530</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
At tentop&#8217;s recent Offal Good dinner we served many of Chef Dunleavy&#8217;s creations; and one of the stand outs was this little goddammit here. A riff on the classic dish of Algeria; one seen throughout the Maghreb. An age-old sweet and savory combination, Pastilla combines a salty meat filling and a buttery sweet crust. Mark [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p class="yiv413709921ecxMsoNormal"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2537" title="306362_285117291518440_212860898744080_1010869_1284753747_n" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/306362_285117291518440_212860898744080_1010869_1284753747_n.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="349" /></p>
<p class="yiv413709921ecxMsoNormal">At <a title="please like us" href="http://www.facebook.com/TenTopPDX">tentop&#8217;s</a> recent<a title="the pictures of that dinner " href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.285117084851794.81589.212860898744080&amp;type=1"> Offal Good</a> dinner we served many of Chef Dunleavy&#8217;s creations; and one of the stand outs was this little goddammit here. A riff on the<a title="an elaborate meat pie traditionally made of squab" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pastilla"> classic dish of Algeria</a>; one seen throughout<a title="Northwest Africa" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Maghreb"> the Maghreb</a>. An age-old sweet and savory combination, <a title="in case you missed it" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pastilla">Pastilla</a> combines a salty meat filling and a buttery sweet crust. Mark pushed the envelope a bit by replacing the traditional squab with veal <a title="or ris are culinary names for the thymus" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sweetbread">sweetbreads</a>, and the addition of a creamy carrot ice cream. The sweetbreads were seasoned with  popular <a title="Morocco" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morocco">Moroccan</a> blend of <span class="mw-redirect">spices</span> called <a title="a clever blend of spices" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ras_el_hanout">Ras al Hanout,</a> which kept me<a title="one of Batman's greatest enemies" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ra%27s_al_Ghul"> thinking of this guy</a><a title="one of Batman's greatest enemies, one of Batman's one of Batman's greatest enemiesgreatest enemies" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ra%27s_al_Ghul">, </a>It all came together nicely with <a title="nuts for your mouth" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Almond">marcona almonds </a>and fresh herbs. My <a title="this next one's called...Death Rides a Pale Chair " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/7ofoq.jpg">faithful readers</a> should take heart in the story of Chef Dunleavy, a real rags to riches story. Or in his case, a jizz-mopper to Chef story. I salute any who take on this recipe, the pay off is truly worth it.</p>
<p class="yiv413709921ecxMsoNormal">Veal Sweetbreads Pastilla by Mark Dunleavy</p>
<p>Filling</p>
<p>2 lbs sweetbreads</p>
<p>1qt veal stock</p>
<p>1 T ras al hanout</p>
<p>1/8 c parsley, chopped</p>
<p>1/8 c chervil, chopped</p>
<p>1/8 c chives, chopped</p>
<p>pinch saffron</p>
<p>salt &amp; pepper</p>
<p>soak sweetbreads in a couple changes of mildly salty water overnight . drain and dry. Remove membrane. Season with ras al hanout and salt. Sear in a rondeau until golden on both sides. Remove. Add veal stock, ras al hanout and saffron. Bring to a simmer. Add sweetbreads cover and place in 350F oven for about 10 minutes, or until cooked with a minimal amount of pink remaining. Cool in braising liquid at room temperature and then press sweetbreads between two sheet pans. Reduce braising liquid by ¾. Clean sweetbreads and portion into popcorn size nuggets. Mix with a ¼ c of reduced braising liquid, 1 T crème fraiche, the chopped herbs and salt, pepper and ras al hanout to taste.</p>
<p>1 package of filo</p>
<p>½ c marcona almonds</p>
<p>1 T sugar</p>
<p>½ tsp cinnamon</p>
<p>Prepared filling</p>
<p>¼ c parsley, chopped</p>
<p>½ c melted butter</p>
<p>Prepare four layers of filo with butter and parsley spread between each layer. Crush marcona almonds and toss with sugar, cinnamon and pinch of salt. Portion 1 ½ oz of filling and place on the filo. top with a covering of marcona mixture. Cut a rectangle 2” x 3” around the filling. Roll like a chimichanga, motherfucker.</p>
<p>Carrot I.C. (adapted from someone else’s recipe)</p>
<p>600 ml carrot juice</p>
<p>50 g glucose powder</p>
<p>40 g sugar</p>
<p>10 g glucose syrup</p>
<p>2 g ice cream stabilizer</p>
<p>Pinch salt</p>
<p>5 egg yolks</p>
<p>300 ml cream</p>
<p>Reduce 300 ml  of the carrot juice to a syrup. Add remaining juice, glucose powder, sugar, glucose syrup, ice cream stabilizer and salt. Scald. Temper into yolks. Cook to custard and strain into cream. Freeze</p>
<p>Bake filo pouches at 350 f until golden. Serve with carrot i.c and nut garnish.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="size-full wp-image-2539 aligncenter" title="300306_291950857501750_212860898744080_1032276_2119892860_n" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/300306_291950857501750_212860898744080_1032276_2119892860_n.jpg" alt="" width="326" height="270" /></p>
<p><span style="font-size: small; font-family: Times New Roman;"> </span></p>
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		<title>Tentop Takes the Next Step.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/10/15/tentop-takes-the-next-step/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/10/15/tentop-takes-the-next-step/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:37:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[kitchencru]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[offal]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2521</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
My original idea for tentop was not to create a thematic supper club. I knew when I took the kitchen manager job at KitchenCru that i would need a creative outlet, a venue where I could experiment with food and write about it.  I also thought I might be able to create a place for [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2524" title="pigheaded" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/pigheaded.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="535" /></p>
<p>My original idea for <a title="the facebook page" href="http://www.facebook.com/TenTopPDX">tentop</a> was not to create a thematic supper club. I knew when I took the kitchen manager job at<a title="the nicest kitchen in Portland " href="http://www.facebook.com/OnlineCru"> KitchenCru</a> that i would need a creative outlet, a venue where I could experiment with food and write about it.  I also thought I might be able to create a place for buddies of mine to cook; sous chefs or line cooks. Talented people who wanted to cook their own food, but worked under another Chef, so couldn&#8217;t. Not another venue to give the reach around to the usual suspects of the Portland food scene, but a place for the talented up and comers who make those Chefs&#8217; celebrity possible. As noble as that all sounds, I also saw it as a chance to continue learning new techniques and biting ideas, the foundation of my culinary prowess. And the obvious benefit of doing half the work and receiving the same amount of glory was not unappealing, truth be told.</p>
<p>So, proud to say; our latest dinner showcased talented Chef Mark Dunleavy of <a title="where he is pastry chef among other things " href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/Tabla-Mediterranean-Bistro/205937366109383?v=info">Tabla on NE 28th</a>. I met Mark at <a title="seems like ancient history now " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/01/10/we-had-a-great-run-goodbye-ten-01/">Ten-01</a>, and I&#8217;ve written about him before <a title="he was more of a dick back then" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2008/12/13/herb-ice-cream-make-it-like-a-dick/">on this blog</a>. He picked a menu direction that turned out to be a hard sell: offal. I was a bit disappointed and surprised by this in Portland, with everyone preaching the whole &#8220;nose to tail&#8221; eating and all that farm to table shit. I figured people would be tripping over themselves to eat this stuff, but we didn&#8217;t fill the seats until the last minute. Chef Dunleavy created a menu both interesting and accessible, for the veterans of organ meats and noobs alike. The guests who attended were blown away, we had one couple tell us they wanted to buy a season pass to tentop; and they were visiting from DC.</p>
<p>After posting the pictures from this<a title="GAZE UPON THEM" href="http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.285117084851794.81589.212860898744080&amp;type=3"> dinner on facebook</a>, I&#8217;ve been inundated with requests from cook buddies in Portland who want to get in here and do a dinner with tentop; and I couldn&#8217;t be happier. Upcoming dinners will include themes like &#8220;Fusion,&#8221; because love it or hate it, it&#8217;s where innovation in food comes from. Also &#8220;Molecular,&#8221; because I know a talented Chef who can teach me some cool shit. And what about straight up Mexican? Everybody loves that shit, and I&#8217;ve got a guy for that. So stay tuned<a title="warning: cannot unsee the creepiness" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/eatlikeapig.jpg"> faithful readers,</a> if there is still any of you out there. Here&#8217;s Mark&#8217;s menu, I handled the dessert, of course. I&#8217;ll be bugging him to hook me up with some recipes to post.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Offal Good</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Chef Mark Dunleavy</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">foie gras mousse</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">“ants on a log”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">pig heart rueben</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">house made rye, heart pastrami</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">confit lamb tongue</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">beets, watercress, horseradish </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;"><span> </span>raviolo</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">pig’s head, marinated mushrooms, pickled mustard seeds</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">veal kidneys</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">deviled with potatoes, grilled hanger steak and parsley sauce</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">sweetbreads</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">in the style of pastilla with carrot ice cream</span></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 16pt; line-height: 115%;">“squeal”</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: center;" align="center"><span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;">“pig tail,” blood caramel, milk chocolate mousse</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: 6pt; text-align: left;"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2526" title="two-guys-cooking" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/two-guys-cooking.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
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			<wfw:commentRss>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/10/15/tentop-takes-the-next-step/feed/</wfw:commentRss>
		</item>
		<item>
		<title>Hamburger &#038; Hot Dog.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/08/10/hamburger-hot-dog/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/08/10/hamburger-hot-dog/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 11 Aug 2011 02:11:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[burger]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[hot dog]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[shorty]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2492</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
What&#8217;s more comforting to faithful readers like yourselves than a hamburger and hotdog? For me, I always want to eat one or the other of these invented elsewhere but perfected by America delicacies. I eat hot dogs or hamburgers more than anything else, Shorty can verify, and there are few things that I will argue [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/burger-reszie.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2501" title="burger-reszie" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/burger-reszie.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>
<p>What&#8217;s more comforting to <a title="Fire's ready, let's pull those chickens out of the brine " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/wtf.jpg">faithful readers</a> like yourselves than a hamburger and hotdog? For me, I always want to eat one or the other of these invented elsewhere but perfected by America delicacies. I eat hot dogs or hamburgers more than anything else, <a title="that beautiful minx " href="http://hungrycupboard.blogspot.com/">Shorty</a> can verify, and there are few things that I will argue more vehemently than the proper way to make/cook a burger. It&#8217;s my favorite food, there I said it. I am a simple man with simple tastes.</p>
<p>For <a title="facespace" href="http://www.facebook.com/TenTopPDX">tentop&#8217;</a>s Junk Food dinner, we spun the old classics into something we could call our own, It&#8217;s just how we roll. The dog we did in the style of <a title="classic " href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Choucroute_garnie">choucroute</a>, the classic<a title="the fifth-smallest of the 27 regions of France " href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alsace"> Alsatian</a> dish of sauerkraut, sausage, pork belly, and sometimes potatoes. We followed through on the theme with a soft pretzel bun and whole grain mustard. We made our own smoked<a title="a coarse-grained smoked meat " href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andouille"> andouille</a> sausage, a milestone for me. I&#8217;ve seen sausage piped into casings dozens of times, but have never done it myself. It&#8217;s easier than it looks, but it ain&#8217;t exactly easy.</p>
<p>The burger was a version of something I&#8217;ve been wanting to try for awhile, which<a title="one of my favorite food blogs " href="http://www.thefoodinmybeard.com/2010/07/mac-and-cheese-stuffed-burgers.html"> I discovered here</a>. It&#8217;s one of those &#8220;because fuck you that&#8217;s why&#8221; kind of dishes. We took truffle mac e chee, solidified it in the fridge, then cut out round discs which we stuffed into the burgers. The trim left over we breaded and deep fried as a side, and just called it &#8220;hamburger with truffle mac e chee,&#8221; making the stuffed part a surprise. The buns were a recipe I&#8217;m coming to lean on more and more from<a title="awesome sauce " href="http://www.ideasinfood.com/"> Ideas in Food</a>. By the way, every time I say &#8220;Ideas in Food,&#8221; I think of <a title="just the intro" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFvZtROeJrE">something else</a>.  It&#8217;s a simple dough that is highly adaptable to many applications; foccacia, loaves, buns, etc. I even used it once as a spare tire on my car. Anyway, I stole it from one of the <a title="Great recipes and blah blah blah " href="http://www.amazon.com/Ideas-Food-Great-Recipes-They/dp/0307717402">best books released </a>this year, go buy a copy. But first make this bread.</p>
<p><strong>Fail Safe Bread</strong> by <a title="awesome sauce" href="http://www.ideasinfood.com/">Ideas in Food</a>.</p>
<p>975 g AP flour</p>
<p>4.5 g dry active yeast</p>
<p>12.5 g sugar (or honey, or maple syrup, or brown sugar)</p>
<p>18 g salt</p>
<p>2.5 cups water, milk, tea, beer, etc warm like bathwater, not too hot</p>
<p>oil for brushing, semolina for tray.</p>
<ul>
<li>preheat the oven to 400 F. Line a sheet tray with parchment paper. Oil a medium large bowl.</li>
<li>Weigh all the ingredients into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix just until a ball of dough forms. cover the bowl and rest 15 minutes.</li>
<li>After the rest, mix on second (medium) speed for 7 minutes. Mold the dough into a ball and transfer to the oiled bowl. Cover with plastic wrap. Let rise two hours, or until doubled in size.</li>
<li>Punch the dough down and let it rise again until not quite doubled in size, about one hour.</li>
<li>Portion the dough into roll size (3-4 oz) divide in half and roll into loaves, or maybe a loaf pan? Or flatten onto a oiled sheet pan for foccacia. Bake for ten minutes at 400, then rotate the pan reduce the temperature to 325 and bake an additional 12 minutes</li>
</ul>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2503" title="sausage-handler-resize" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/sausage-handler-resize.jpg" alt="" width="498" height="496" /></p>
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		<title>Bacon Bread Pudding Egg in the Basket.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/06/14/bacon-bread-pudding-egg-in-the-basket/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/06/14/bacon-bread-pudding-egg-in-the-basket/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Jun 2011 17:39:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[bacon]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[plated dessert]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2388</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
First and foremost, let&#8217;s get something out of the way here, faithful readers. What you see pictured above here in not a version of Toad in the Hole, which is a common misconception. This is a version of Egg in the Basket, or Egg in a Frame as it is sometimes known. Click the link [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2389" title="bacyeggymiddle" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/bacyeggymiddle.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="358" /></p>
<p>First and foremost, let&#8217;s get something out of the way here, <a title="Wanna build a sand castle little boy?" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/moron.jpg">faithful readers</a>. What you see pictured above here in not a version of <a title="a traditional English dish" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toad_in_the_hole">Toad in the Hole</a>, which is a <a title="AND IT BUGS ME NO END" href="http://allrecipes.com/Recipe/toad-in-a-hole/Detail.aspx">common misconception</a>. This is a version of <a title="see?" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Egg_in_the_basket">Egg in the Basket</a>, or Egg in a Frame as it is sometimes known. Click the link above, <a title="SEE?!?" href="http://www.google.com/search?q=Toad+in+the+Hole&amp;oe=utf-8&amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;client=firefox-a&amp;um=1&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;tbm=isch&amp;source=og&amp;sa=N&amp;hl=en&amp;tab=wi&amp;biw=1366&amp;bih=601">Toad in the Hole</a> is something else.</p>
<p>OK, moving on. My <a title="3.0" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2009/11/18/pootang-30/">use of bread pudding</a> is well documented, as well as my<a title="see?" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/05/31/tentop-presents-%E2%80%9Csupfast%E2%80%9D-part-2-or-eggs-i-fucking-love-em/"> love of eggs</a>. I have been brain storming how to get a poached egg onto a dessert for some time now, or any kind of egg preparation; and here finally achieved it at <a title="the facebook page" href="http://www.facebook.com/#!/TenTopPDX">tentop</a>&#8217;s <a title="that menu" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/menu-jpg.jpg">Supfast</a>. The first version had a coffee poached egg, which had an intensely delicious coffee flavor, but looked like a<a title="which will be the name of my new grind-core band " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/feti.jpg"> decaying fetus</a>. I plated the pudding and then the poached egg, then <a title="looked like hell" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/pootang21.jpg">covered it with candied nuts</a>. It still looked like hell. The <a title="and added caramelized bananas" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/pootang-3.jpg">next version </a>omitted the egg, and we rallied in the end with a true <a title="seared, then finished in the oven" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/249686_219558878074282_212860898744080_766303_3791048_n-1.jpg">Egg in The Basket</a>, as seen above. The finished dish had banana caramel, coffee salt, candied macadamia, and molasses whipped cream. I scored the bread needed for this from my friend Kathy a.k.a. <a title="still searching for a golden spatula " href="http://gelatinsheets.blogspot.com/">adoxograph</a> who works at <a title="6330 Sw Capitol Hwy, Portland, Or 97239 • 503.244.7573" href="http://bakerandspicebakery.com/">Baker &amp; Spice.</a> She is a laminated dough master, and totally hooked me up. The bacon used was of the un-smoked variety from none other than<a title="some damn fine pigs" href="http://www.tailsandtrotters.com/"> Tails &amp; Trotters</a>.</p>
<p><strong>Bacon Bread Pudding </strong></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span class="ingredient">6 oz soft butter</span><br />
6 oz bacon fat<br />
<span class="ingredient">14 oz brown sugar</span></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span class="ingredient">10 eggs</span></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><span class="ingredient">1 1/2 qts heavy cream</span><br />
<span class="ingredient">1 1/2 qts half &amp; half</span></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">1 1/2 lbs bacon fully cooked drained, and diced</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Day old croissants, brioche, or challah.</p>
<p><em><em><br />
</em></em></p>
<div>Weigh soft butter, bacon fat and brown sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer.  Cream light and fluffy.</p>
<p>Add the eggs slowly, scraping three times during the process.  Mixture will look broken.</p>
<p>Switch to whip attachment and on medium speed add the heavy cream and half &amp; half.</p>
<p>Chop  up day old bread into 2 inch chunks and add to custard.  Add enough  bread to create a wet, pudding like mass&#8230;not too dry.  Store in an  airtight container overnight.</p>
<p>Next day, add in your bacon.</p>
<p>Prepare a parchment lined, well  greased hotel pan or silicon mold and transfer the pudding.  Fill mold  flush with lip of pan.  Cover with aluminum foil.</p>
<p>Bake at 300 F  until edges are set.  Remove foil and bake additional 15-20 minutes,  until center is baked and top is golden brown.</p>
<p>Eat warm or chill thoroughly before slicing into clean shapes.  30 seconds in microwave at pick up.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2403" title="platingdessert" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/platingdessert.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></div>
<p style="text-align: left;">
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		<title>Tentop presents “Supfast” - Part 2 or, Eggs: I Fucking Love &#8216;Em</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/05/31/tentop-presents-%e2%80%9csupfast%e2%80%9d-part-2-or-eggs-i-fucking-love-em/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/05/31/tentop-presents-%e2%80%9csupfast%e2%80%9d-part-2-or-eggs-i-fucking-love-em/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 31 May 2011 23:45:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[breakfast]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[eggs]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[nomnomnomnom]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2342</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Anyone who has eaten with me, or cooked with me for that matter, has more than likely heard me spout off about my love of eggs, specifically warm egg yolk. Faithful readers know that warm egg yolk is hands down my favorite flavor in the whole culinary world. It adds richness, a silky smooth fattiness [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2344" title="eggtrio" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/eggtrio.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="244" /></p>
<p>Anyone who has eaten with me, or cooked with me for that matter, has more than likely heard me spout off about my <a title="see how long you can watch...I made it about 32 seconds " href="http://www.albinoblacksheep.com/flash/eggsong">love of eggs</a>, specifically warm egg yolk. <a title="This gives me the weirdest boner " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/faithful-reader1.jpg">Faithful readers</a> know that warm egg yolk is hands down my favorite flavor in the whole culinary world. It adds richness, a silky smooth fattiness to almost any dish. I eat sunny side up eggs almost every morning, I have for years. If I have a late night and wake up at two in the afternoon, I still want to eat eggs before anything else that day. In addition to it&#8217;s unparalleled flavor, the egg holds a special place in my heart for it&#8217;s many <a title="or less than useful properties" href="http://bizarrelabs.com/egg.htm">useful properties</a>. Thickening, leavening, emulsifying to name a few. Eggs are also one of those ethereal ingredients that you don&#8217;t always realize are there, but would know something was missing if they weren&#8217;t. The <a title="http://www.incredibleegg.org/" href="http://www.incredibleegg.org/?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_term=incredible%20edible%20egg&amp;utm_campaign=General%20new">incredible, edible egg</a> also has the the ability to put one in the hospital, if you happen to be my good friend Eric who is allergic.</p>
<p>Anyway, when we set out to create our <a title="the menu" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/menu-jpg.jpg">SupFast</a> menu for <a title="the facebook page" href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/TenTop/212860898744080">tentop</a>, we took great care not to inundate our menu with eggs, which are an integral part of any breakfast as far as I&#8217;m concerned. Our solution was an egg trio, using quail eggs; which contain all the deliciousness at a third of the size. We had what we called Huevos Benedictos, a Spanish version of the classic brunch item. I started with a rich brioche recipe from one of my new favorite cookbooks, <a title="GET IT" href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-Cafe-Francisco-J-Migoya/dp/047037134X">The Modern Cafe by Francisco Migoya. </a> This dough has so much butter in it, it took almost 30 minutes beating on it with the dough hook before it started to develop any gluten. We topped these toasted rounds with <a title="jamon" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jam%C3%B3n_serrano">serrano</a> and a sunny side quail egg, then <a title="a variation of béarnaise " href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/B%C3%A9arnaise_sauce#Derivatives_of_B.C3.A9arnaise_sauce">sauce charon</a> made with<a title="SOO GOOD! Like all thier products." href="http://portlandfood.org/topic/5768-viridian-farms-piment-despelette/"> Viridian Farms espelette</a> powder. The second egg on the plate was a &#8220;<a title="Fortnum &amp; Mason claims to have invented Scotch eggs in 1738" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotch_egg">scotch</a>.&#8221; I use quotes because we skipped the whole packing the soft boiled egg in sausage bit, and just breaded and deep fried it. We did this for two reasons. One, the whole idea came for trying this egg from a bi-product of another dish we did for <a title="that menu" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/metaldinner-copy11.jpg">Satan&#8217;s Feast.</a> The<a title="it was SO PISSED" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797773/"> angry allium</a> dish had fried pepperoni on it, small rounds which we cut from bigger slices. We fried up the trimmings for a snack and found we had made these perfect little pedestals, ideal for cradling a little egg. Secondly, to &#8220;lighten&#8221; what was shaping up to be a rich dish, and one with a <a title="I didn't take it any further than this" href="http://www.google.com/search?q=meaty+pedestal&amp;ie=utf-8&amp;oe=utf-8&amp;aq=t&amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;client=firefox-a">meaty pedestal</a> to boot, we skipped the sausage. Also, after having soft boiled and peeled 24 quail eggs to get 16, I wasn&#8217;t about to risk losing more by smooshing meat around &#8216;em. A little <a title="a chopped herb condiment" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gremolata">gremolata</a> (under the egg) helped soak up the warm yolk as well as add a nice vegetal note. Lastly, behold the noble omelet. I originally suggested to my co-chef Michael that we do an egg white version, and before I had finished the sentence he had this look on his face that said &#8220;fuck that.&#8221; And he was right. Egg white omelets are bullshit. So we went in the opposite direction, and used all yolks for these little babies. Inside was <a title="scroll down and behold the newest member of the family" href="http://www.mttownsendcreamery.com/cheese.html">Mt. Townsend New Moon Jack </a>cheese and <a title="a top farm in Oregon" href="http://www.viridianfarms.com/">Viridian Farms</a> asparagus. I created a sauce by browning butter, then adding a little salt and champagne vinegar. In my pastry mind&#8217;s eye I felt I could give the sauce a little body with a few sheets of gelatin, which worked, kind of. I had to remove almost all of the fat (clarified butter) from the sauce before I noticed any real thickening. It was a smooth, intense sauce. Garnish was for a little crunch, form of&#8230;<a title="so freaky " href="http://www.amazingribs.com/recipes/snacks_and_munchies/frico_cheese_crisps.html">fricco</a>! For the brunch we did a similar dish, minus the &#8220;scotch.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Sauce Charon </strong></p>
<p>2 egg yolks</p>
<p>Juice from 1 lemon</p>
<p>1 1/2 cups clarified butter</p>
<p>1/4 cup tomato paste, warm</p>
<p><a title="here's wher to buy some, if you can't get viridain farms " href="http://www.amazon.com/Pimente-dEspelette-Powder-50-gr/dp/B001TZJ2Q8">Pimente d&#8217;Espilette</a> to taste <em><br />
</em></p>
<p>salt to taste</p>
<p>warm water to adjust consistency</p>
<p>1. Warm clarified butter to body temperature.</p>
<p>2. Whisk egg yolk, lemon juice, and a little warm water until mixture is light and frothy.</p>
<p>3. Using an <a title="like this " href="http://www.amazon.com/Cuisinart-CSB-76BC-SmartStick-200-Watt-Immersion/dp/B000EGA6QI">immersion blende</a>r, blend mixture continuously while drizzling in the warm butter. I do this in a <a title="you know the one " href="http://www.webstaurantstore.com/vollrath-super-pan-ii-30662-1-6-stainless-steel-anti-jam-steam-table-hotel-pan-6-deep/vollrath-super-pan-ii-30662-1-6-stainless-steel-anti-jam-steam-table-hotel-pan-6-deep.jpg">six pan</a> or a <a title="and this one " href="http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/1/5/1/3/5/2/2/webimg/454521750_o.jpg">small bain marie insert.</a> I like to put these above a stove or oven to warm them before I start the sauce.</p>
<p>4. Adjust consistency with warm water through the butter adding process. The sauce should have a loose mayonnaise look.</p>
<p>5. When all the butter is added, add the warm tomato paste, espilette powder, and season with salt to taste. Serve ASAP, keep warm.</p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2346" title="egg-duo" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/egg-duo.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
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		<title>Tentop presents &#8220;Supfast&#8221; - Part 1.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/05/25/tentop-presents-supfast-part-1/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/05/25/tentop-presents-supfast-part-1/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 May 2011 01:15:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[creative presentation of the week]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[recipe]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2315</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
This rather innocuous looking dish was a showcase in decadence and a personal milestone for me as a Chef. The first course in tentop&#8217;s latest dinner &#8220;Supfast,&#8221; we this called Duck in a Blanket. We rolled foie gras torchon into a thin pancake and served it with a maple gastrique and crushed hazelnut brittle. This [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2316" title="duck-in-a-blanket" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/duck-in-a-blanket.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="425" /></p>
<p>This rather innocuous looking dish was a showcase in decadence and a personal milestone for me as a Chef. The first course in <a title="the facebook page " href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/TenTop/212860898744080">tentop&#8217;s</a> latest dinner &#8220;<a title="the menu" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/menu-jpg.jpg">Supfast</a>,&#8221; we this called Duck in a Blanket. We rolled<a title="Ruhlman compares techniques " href="http://ruhlman.com/2011/05/how-to-make-torchon-recipe/"> foie gras torchon</a> into a thin pancake and served it with a maple <a title="a reduction of vinegar and sugar" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gastrique">gastrique </a>and crushed hazelnut brittle. This dish marked a milepost for me on a long and winding road: making <a title="a common cold preparation" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foie_gras#Cold_preparations">foie torchon</a> from <a title="from lobes..." href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2620.jpg">start</a> to<a title="...to logs " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2657.jpg"> finish</a> without a Chef lording over me. And I must say,<a title="ok, ok...I paid those two guys to hang out with me..." href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/lv5it.jpg"> faithful readers</a>; when all was said and done: <a title="ahem" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/pxdr1.jpg"><em>Nailed it.</em></a> I followed the recipe in <a title="the quintessential recipe " href="http://www.amazon.com/French-Laundry-Cookbook-Thomas-Keller/dp/1579651267">The French Laundry</a> cookbook, and I had my lovely and talented girlfriend Ingrid help <a title="so intense " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2646.jpg">me</a> with <a title="Her's came out better than mine, of course " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2653.jpg">the rolling </a>and <a title="nothing finer than a hot chick with a warm log of foie " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2659.jpg">poaching</a>, and then the <a title="so fine " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2663.jpg">re-rolling</a> and <a title="on KitchenCru's meat hooks " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2664.jpg">hanging</a>. The next step of the process however, I learned from <a title="who is now Chef here" href="http://www.mgmgrand.com/restaurants/seablue-mediterranean-restaurant.aspx">Chef Eric Suniga</a> during his brief stint as <a title="which is now gone" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/01/10/we-had-a-great-run-goodbye-ten-01/">Ten-01 </a>Sous. After the <a title="french for 'towel'" href="http://www.foodwords.com/glossary_display_term.php?id=186">torchon</a> was hung for a few days, I brought it up to room temperature passed it <a title="or sifter" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2671.jpg">through a tamis</a>, then piped the <a title="so decadent " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2672.jpg">soft and supple</a> liver into an <a title="like a boss" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2675.jpg">acetate lined mold</a>. This last step is truly the move in foie gras handling. Firstly, any veins that you missed in the initial cleaning of the lobe is removed, and any oxidation or discoloring from blood is mixed in; you get a nice, rosy pink color. Finally, you can mold it really into any shape, I did a variety of <a title="heheh...log" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2679.jpg">log shapes</a> once I had what I needed for service of<a title="pretty tight " href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/img_2681.jpg"> the skinnys.</a></p>
<p>The dish was super successful, we wrapped the frozen little foie sticks into a hot thin pancake; which warmed the fatty liver to a perfect temp for eating in a few seconds. The idea was to dip into the gastrique first, then into the hazelnut brittle, and then into your mouth. A great start to what proved to be an amazing meal. We did a similar menu for a brunch over the weekend, the foie in this case a key component of a dish simply called &#8220;pancakes.&#8221;</p>
<p><strong>Hazelnut Brittle </strong></p>
<p>1 cup white sugar<br />
1/4 cup water<br />
1/4 cup light corn syrup<br />
2 tablespoons butter<br />
2 1/2 cups roasted unsalted hazelnuts, sliced<br />
1/2 teaspoon salt<br />
1/4 teaspoon baking soda<br />
Few drops vanilla</p>
<p>Directions</p>
<p>Put a large pot or kettle over a medium heat. Add sugar, water, and corn syrup and bring to a boil.</p>
<p>When mixture comes to a boil, add butter.</p>
<p>Cook to 260 degrees F on a candy thermometer without stirring and add the sliced hazelnuts</p>
<p>Bring mixture to 300 degrees F and stir in salt, baking soda and vanilla.</p>
<p>Pour mixture onto a greased baking sheet and spread out and allow to cool.<br />
<img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2320" title="pancakes" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/pancakes.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>
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		<title>Ten Top.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/04/22/ten-top/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/04/22/ten-top/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 23 Apr 2011 00:54:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[chef]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[jack yoss]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[jeff]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[tentop]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2288</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
As faithful readers know, I&#8217;ve cooked my whole working life.  In my seventeen years of kitchen work, I&#8217;ve only had one job that wasn&#8217;t food related; driving a horse carriage in Vail. I still hesitate to call myself a Chef, as it is a moniker for which I hold much respect. Even though I&#8217;ve had [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2294" title="jeffatatentop" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/jeffatatentop.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="455" /></p>
<p>As <a title="I really wish i knew these guys" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/japanese-superhero-weirdos.jpg">faithful readers</a> know, I&#8217;ve cooked my whole working life.  In my seventeen years of kitchen work, I&#8217;ve only had one job that wasn&#8217;t food related; driving a horse carriage in Vail. I still hesitate to call myself a Chef, as it is a moniker for which I hold much respect. Even though I&#8217;ve had the word in my title as pastry chef for a few years now, Chef with a capital &#8220;c&#8221; is something else altogether.  <a title="that guy" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/category/jack-yoss/">Jack Yoss</a> is a Chef. Compared to him I will always be a cook. Semantics aside, the gods have somehow seen fit to land me in a Chef role of sorts, and I couldn&#8217;t be happier. As Chef jobs go, this one is breezy. It&#8217;s an invite only pop up restaurant for ten people, hence the name. The <a title="the venue for ten top" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/wood-counter-1.jpg">counter at Kitchen Cru</a> was just begging for this model, and why shouldn&#8217;t it be me who answers the call.   I was able to convince <a title="thats him on the left " href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797609/">Michael, the owner of KitchenCru</a> and my employer to try. Him being far from a slouch in the kitchen, a very experienced <span id="lw_1303421873_1" class="yshortcuts">home cook,</span> in fact, he came on board as co-chef. TenTop was born.  We had very  keen ideas from the beginning about what this would be; very small; very  exclusive, the two of us having fun with food and friends. The idea to  implement a Twitter/Facebook update blackout came to us very early, my  friend and mentor Adam Berger having suggested it. Make this a true  experience, one that didn&#8217;t need validation from the internet. Any blogging, tweeting or Facebooking that took place would happen on our end, before and after the event.<br />
Our first dinner was Satan&#8217;s Feast, a heavy  metal themed dinner. I wanted to make it fun and have an element of another  driving force in my life: music. The menu descriptions were cryptic, as I tried to make them sound as metal as possible. I played some Instrametal like <a title="Love this band " href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kf7skzi-uoM">Pelican</a> and <a title="I have a man crush on the guitarist" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmfzWpp0hMc">Animals as Leaders</a> during the dinner which at a lower volume seemed quite nice to eat to. Our first course was a<a title="so metal " href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797983/"> freshly shucked oyster,</a> because what is more metal than eating something that was alive only moments before? Second was <a title="Looks good, no?" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797773/">my favorite dish </a>of the evening, poached leeks with and<a title="ANGRY SAUCE" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arrabbiata_sauce"> Arrabbiata</a> vinaigrette and duchess potato garnished with fried pepperoni. A last minute course we put together before the entree turned out to be the most metal of all, <a title="blurry ass pic sorry" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5671366140/">chicken heart </a>dipped in<a title="blurry ass pic sorry" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5671366140/"> </a><a title="so good" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agrodolce">agro dulce</a> served on a duplex nail with a shot of grappa. Our entree was a<a title="On homemade bread" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797381/"> fra diavolo surf &amp; turf sandwich </a>with some chioggia beet chips. Served on a house made pullman loaf, this sando was something to behold. It didn&#8217;t eat as well as I hoped, it ended up being a little cumbersome. The flavors were spot on though, hell of decadent. For dessert, I looked to make pastry metal by using the most brutal ingredient of all, blood. <a title="A great dessert " href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/5670797555/">A pig&#8217;s blood custard with lemon sherbet</a>, smoked pickled cherries, and blood caramel. This was a successful dish, the flavor of pig&#8217;s blood goes quite well with cocoa, the panna cotta&#8217;s other main flavoring ingredient. A subtle coppery earthiness and a slightly viscous texture created a nice complexity.</p>
<p>All in all, our first dinner was a huge success. In the near future I&#8217;m going to be bringing in some buddies of mine, fellow cooks and sous Chef&#8217;s who want to unleash their own food on the public, but don&#8217;t have a venue because they work in another chef&#8217;s kitchen. Also, you&#8217;ll see plenty of these dinners blogged about here with pictures and recipes, a la mrjeffmccarthy.com. For now you can <a title="so futuristic " href="http://www.megaupload.com/?d=P07KEPJX">download the recipes here.</a> Check out all the photos for <a title="satans feast at tentop" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/sets/72157626486681401/">this event on my Flickr page. </a>Follow TenTop on twitter <a title="like this" href="http://twitter.com/#!/TenTopCru">@tentopcru</a>, or check out<a title="I'm still working on it" href="http://www.facebook.com/pages/TenTop/212860898744080?v=wall&amp;sk=wall#!/pages/TenTop/212860898744080?sk=wall"> the facebook page.</a><a title="satans feast at tentop" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/9485121@N05/sets/72157626486681401/"><br />
</a></p>
<p><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-2300" title="metaldinner-copy11" src="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/metaldinner-copy11.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="1125" /></p>
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		<title>Your Moms Baked Goods.</title>
		<link>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/02/12/your-moms-baked-goods/</link>
		<comments>http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/02/12/your-moms-baked-goods/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Feb 2011 07:41:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>mrjeffmccarthy</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Your Moms']]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[cookies]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[delicious]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[faithful readers]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/?p=2232</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[
Hey did you every wonder about that magic?  That little light that helps you find your way home, to your heart of hearts?  That spark that keeps you going, in spite of it all?  That little magic that conjures itself, with nary a swish or flick, and serves to inspire you through your day, to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/02/12/your-moms-baked-goods/"><em>Click here to view the embedded video.</em></a></p>
<p>Hey did you every wonder about that magic?  That little light that helps you find your way home, to your heart of hearts?  That spark that keeps you going, in spite of it all?  That little magic that conjures itself, with nary a swish or flick, and serves to inspire you through your day, to keep you going?  I&#8217;m not magic, I don&#8217;t even profess to do magic.  What I do is barely science.  But I can tell you what gets me through my day.  Indulgence.  At the very least the promise there of.  That promise of that first cold beer, heads lifting and turning like<a title="beer?" href="http://static.howstuffworks.com/gif/meerkats-1.jpg"> meerkats</a> at the tell-tale &#8220;shh-pck.&#8221;  Or maybe it&#8217;s that perfectly cooked burger, piled high with fixins&#8217; and oozing mayo like you know you want it to, all sexy like.  Hell, maybe for you it&#8217;s peeing off the bridge on your walk home, but you know what I mean.  Something you do just for you, like a midnight cookie dipped into a cold glass of milk in the refrigerator light.</p>
<p>Speaking of indulgence, and cookies for that matter, why not satisfy your need for both with a few late night flicks of the wrist?  No, that&#8217;s not what I mean, you know; click the mouse.  Oh just buy my shit.</p>
<p>As <a title="Jesus it's like a Rancor" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/fat-people-love-cookies.jpg">faithful readers</a> know, I&#8217;m a recent inductee into that elite club of high earning loafers, the select few paid to merely <a title="lost my job" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/01/10/we-had-a-great-run-goodbye-ten-01/">&#8220;look&#8221; for work.</a> This sudden extreme increase of free time has got me thinking.  The not so distant past of my pastry chef profile, the state of fine dining in this economy and so forth, I mean Executive Pastry Chef? In Portland?  There&#8217;s like two. What if I could strip away all the <a title="Tricks are something a whore does for money" href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/wp-content/images/gobwithajob.jpg">smoke and mirrors</a> of fine dining and using the hairy diodes of the internet and put my pastry right in your very hands?  Where to start? Would you buy it? Would you electronically transmit your hard earned money to get at that sweet indulgence that only I can provide, you faceless billions behind glowing screens everywhere?  I mean you could be eating my cookies right now, if they were available online.   This is how the idea for Your Mom&#8217;s Baked Goods came to me.</p>
<p>Why Your Moms?  The obvious mom joke is already hanging there, like ripe, low-hanging fruit.  Your Mom&#8217;s Cookies.  Heh heh.  Your Mom.  This kind of facile low-brow humor comes so easily to my <a title="google image search *cookie dress* did not disappoint  " href="http://nymag.com/images/2/daily/food/07/11/08_chocolatedress2_lg.jpg">faithful readers</a> that uttering it would only cheapen it.  I thought, then why not make it also make it a tribute to Moms everywhere? I love my Mom, and you love yours, right?  What group, other than babies, are so universally loved worldwide than mothers?  And how many of them have inspired us to bake? My mother used to make us the most awesome birthday cakes.  She used a box mix most of the time, but would spend hours decorating mounds of cake into Spider Man or something.  I seem to remember an igloo cake at some point.  Yeah, moms rule.  So do my cookies.  So would you buy &#8216;em? Let&#8217;s find out!  This weekend at <a title="where i still make desserts " href="http://www.tmbistro.com/">Tabla, </a>where I was lucky enough to crash-land part time after losing my job; diners receive a free sample of my <a title="Such as a Simple Cookie." href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2010/08/14/such-as-a-simple-cookie/">salted chocolate chip cookie.</a> while supplies last.  Hopefully, a good amount of people reading this scored one of those samples, and will show their support and feedback in the comments.  Everyone else, let me know what you think of this whole venture.  Follow the progress on twitter @yourmomsbaked</p>
<p><a href="http://mrjeffmccarthy.com/2011/02/12/your-moms-baked-goods/"><em>Click here to view the embedded video.</em></a></p>
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