Archives Under "dessert" (RSS)
I Make Dessert II.
18 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert | 10 Responses
Here is another dessert that I serve at Ten-01. It’s called Olive Oil Beignets with Lemon Sage Anglaise. I did this dessert at my tasting for the job here because we have these really sweet bowls. The sauce rides in a little caddy up front, and the dougnuts in back. I think these were what got me the job. Oh yeah, and a little magazine called Bon Appetit is running them in thier June 08 issue. The pastry is a basic pate choux, where most of butter is replaced with olive oil. Typically, choux paste uses water, but I like using good ‘ol whole milk. The batter is basically an enriched roux that eggs are added to while its still warm. I’m not sure what science is going on here, but according to Harold McGee in On Food And Cooking, cooking the flour with the liquid and fat tenderizes the gluten protiens, preventing them from develpoing elasticity, and the addition of eggs adds flavor from the yolks and structure from the whites. This basic recipe dates back to 1540, and was fine tuned much later by none other than Antoine Careme. After making the batter I pipe it into little dougnut shapes and freeze them rock hard. They go from the freezer straight into a 325 degree fryer for about eight minutes, until golden brown. While they’re still a little greasy and pipng hot, I toss them in granulated sugar. Half the point of this dish is the sauce, and with the infusion of sage and lemon zest, it nails that whole sweet/savory thing. Another ancient recipe, creme anglaise, is about as easy as it gets. Bring the cream, sugar, zest and herbs to just boiling, kill the heat and cover it for 30 minutes. Strain out the cream and temper in the yolks and cook it, stirring constantly, to a thick custard, around 165 degrees. Once cool, its perfect for dipping doughnuts or spinning into ice cream. Pastry Chef Heidi Kaufmann at Fenouil gave me this sauce recipe, it’s really quite good.
Olive Oil Beignet
2 cups milk
2 oz butter
6 oz olive oil
2 tblsp sugar
1/2 tblsp salt
2 cups A.P. flour
8 eggs
1. Bring first 5 ingredients to a boil
2. Sift flour and add to pot, cooking until it forms a ball
3. Transfer the mix to the bowl of a stand mixer, and add the eggs slowly, one or two at a time
4. Pipe and freeze
Lemon Sage Crème Anglaise
by Heidi Kaufmann
3 cups heavy cream
6 oz sugar
pinch of salt
Pulp of ½ vanilla bean
1 handful of loose chopped Sage (stems as well)
Zest of 2 lemons
3/4 of a cup egg yolk
1.Combine first six ingredients and bring to a simmer
2.Turn off the heat and cover, steep for 30 minutes
3.Strain the resulting liquid and return to heat, scald.
4.Temper in egg yolk and cook to nape
I Make Dessert.
16 March 2008 | Ten 01, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 5 Responses
Okay, so I’m no Michael Laiskonis. I am however, a pastry chef, and I’m making some pretty tasty delights at Ten-01. I’m going to use my next few posts to describe my current menu, because I’m pretty proud of it. What better place to start than our best seller, The Chocolate Whiskey Cake. It’s a rich flourless cake that contains all my favorite ingredients: chocolate, butter, sugar, eggs, and booze. The butter is melted and poured over the chocolate. While that cools to room temperature the eggs and sugar are whisked up until they just turn pale and the sugar is dissolved. The to mixtures are then combined, and finished with the booze, which in this case is Maker’s Mark. I pour the batter into a framed half-sheet pan, and bake it in a 250 degree oven in a water bath. The tricky part of this recipe is knowing when it’s done. I pull it when its still loose in the center, and its starting to souffle a little on the edges. It needs to cool and set up before slicing and serving, which I like to do overnite. The cake is covered with ganache and white chocolate lines before slicing. I serve it with a Dulche de Leche ice cream and Brown Butter Caramel. The chocolate flag garnish gives it some height. It’s fucking delicious. To be quite honest, I’m kind of bored with it, and I wish someone else would make it. So here’s the recipe:
1 lb 13 oz chocolate (%68)
1 lb 13 oz butter
13 oz sugar
13 oz whole eggs
3/4 cup liquor (I’ve used whiskey, kaluha, bailey’s, meyer’s…you get the idea)
1. Chop the chocolate into small pieces and place it in a bowl
2. Melt the butter until it just starts to bubble, then pour it over the chocolate-cool to room temp
3. Whisk the eggs and the sugar together in a seperate bowl
4. Whisk the eggs into the chocolate
5. Pour the batter into a prepared pan and bake in a 250 degree oven, in a water bath, for thirty minutes or so.
6. Chill the cake for at least 3 hours before slicing
Christmas Eve: Chestnut Souffle with Meyers Rum Anglaise
25 December 2007 | carlyle, dessert | No Responses
At least Until Dessert.
2 December 2007 | carlyle, cook, dessert, jeff, plated dessert, review | 4 Responses
Friday the Oregonian published a review for Carlyle. Overall we got a “B,” and Reviewer David Sarasohn had this to say about my desserts:
“Then, in the final course, the party din becomes overpowering. Desserts have multiple elements but seem deconstructed, in the fashion of a couple years ago. A dessert called Irish Car Bomb presents a Guinness-laced brownie, ice cream and caramel sauce flavored with Jameson’s whiskey and Bailey’s Irish Cream, plus crushed pretzel.
Pretzel?
In overkill, it ranks with Velvet Elvis, featuring peanut butter creme brulee, caramelized banana and bacon. Actually, the bacon is separate, on a wafer, but peanut butter is a curious flavor for creme brulee, and getting the three elements in your mouth all at once does not convince you that Elvis Presley was an underrated culinary thinker. On the other hand, it might make your sideburns grow.
The same problems beset deep-fried apple bread pudding (with brown butter ice cream and a curiously uninviting crust) and poached pear with chocolate sauce and cream cheese ice cream — which, once you calm down and get used to the idea, could have worked, except for the large doughnut-like item in the middle.
The problem isn’t lack of skill; a less vociferous dessert of cheesecake three ways was admirable. But the general dessert theme does suggest that the party has gotten out of hand.”
Wow. I’ve been reveiwed. THIS IS AMAZING!! Somebdody is eating and bustin’ on desserts that I made up!!! HAHAHAHAHHA!!!!! I MADE IT!!! HAHAHAHAA!!!!! AND THEY’RE SCARED!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAA. I love food. It’s visceral nature incites the use of words like “vociferous“, and quotes like “it might make your sideburns grow.” I guess according to this reveiwer, my desserts are a little outside the comfort zone, and a little over the top. Well fuck YEAH!! Here’s another interesting quote from a user named Altas of the much read Portland Food & Drink.com:
“The O lacks credibilty … why is David Sarasohn even going to restaurants on the O’s dime with his palate??? ”
And another quote by a user named Diner in the same forum:
“Friends and fellow diners please ignore The Oregonian food critics as incompetent, mean spirited people with self-serving interests. Sample all the food of Portland and decide for yourselves where to return for excellence.”
I plan to write David Sarasohn and thank him for his honest impressions of my food, and for eating at Carlyle. I just got off the phone with Patrick, and he told me I need to come in tommorow, and prep desserts. We sold over 30. A busy night!!Almost sold out on Bread Puddings!! I guess any publicity is good publicity. Thats food and beverage. I’m guessin I’ll have to put cobbler on the menu now. And maybe cupcakes.
New Menu Items
20 November 2007 | carlyle, chocolate, delicious, dessert, food porn, plated dessert | 2 Responses
Faithful readers, it’s time to change ‘em up a little bit, we’ve gotta keep it exciting, right? The Rosemary and Pinenut Tartlette is coming off. I can’t give that thing away. Also bye-bye is the Cheesecake Three Ways, because its too much work. I’m bustin’ my ass over a mediocre dessert, when I should have been making Chocolate Flourless , Passionfruit, and Creme Fraiche Sherbet, pictured above. Sauced it with Valrhona, ’cause it’s good Also we have Poached Pear, Olive Oil beignet, and Valrhona milk chocolate. Take a look below. We poached the pears in a bag for six hours in Jake’s thermal bath. This is attempting that “in the woods” feeling that I was trying to capture with the Pinenut Tart. Maybe this time the clarified butter and chocolate will make it happen. That’s right, we got Valrhona on both, peeps. You’ve tried it , right? Also revised was The Irish Car Bomb, which is now Gunniess stout brownie, Bailey’s anglaise, and Jameson’s salted whiskey caramel ice cream. And don’t forget to check Elvis’s out new bacon cookie!!!
One Dude-3 hours.
15 November 2007 | carlyle, custard, delicious, dessert | No Responses
So thaaaats how long it takes to use every single whip, spat, bowl, and container in the kitchen. Actually, its probably not even a third of the small wares, but certainly all the spats. AB would be ashamed of me. Anyhoo there was a lot of stirring and straining and spinning going on today making ice creams. Today we have blueberry white chocolate, and lemon meringue. For the blueberry I folded in frozen berries and white chocolate mouse to a custard base. Lemon curd and soft merinque went in more base for the other. The blueberry was very white chocolatey, and the lemon was tasty. A good start. I also made malted milk chocolate peanut butter and a base for salted whiskey caramel. I enjoy making ice creams and sorbets, because once I have base made, I can always be spinning. I’ll be all hell of into doing something else (such as a simple plating) and the machine will go ”BEEP!” Then we eat soft serve. Just keep spinning..Just Keep spinning
SPINNING ALL DAY!!!
Top Sellers
11 November 2007 | carlyle, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 2 Responses
After three weeks of my first menu, The Irish Car Bomb is most definitely the best selling dessert at Carlyle. I guess its not that suprising, it’s clearly the most decadent choice. Plating is pretty basic, but got some ideas. Flavors alone are selling it. Clearly, plating isn’t everything. It’s a keeper. Coming in second, my sweetheart dessert, is the Deep Fried Bread Pudding. Another decadent choice by way of deep frying, and caramel apple and croissant baked custard. The brown butter ice cream that goes with it it is probably my favorite ice cream ever. Scooped and sprinkled with a little Fluer de Sel at service, Emeril say BAM! Sam Mason’s brown milk rules! The mulled cider gastrique ties it all together in a way I never would have imagined. Thats because Jaybill did.
The First Menu.
27 October 2007 | bacon, carlyle, custard, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 2 Responses
The first night of the new dessert menu for Carlyle…well…it kicked ass. The Car Bomb was of course the big seller, closely followed by The Deep Fried Caramel Apple Bread Pudding. I was really happy with how the Cheesecake Three Ways went out, it was a study in cheesy custard. We only sold two Velvet Elvis, but it was so great to hear the chef call it out across the kitchen, and to see dessert go out with bacon on it. When the runner picked it up I called “Elvis has left the kitchen!” The Rosemary Pinenut Tartlette was the sleeper, but a guest told the owner it was “damn good.” I also put out a special order Apple Pie, for which we charged an exorbitant price. The menu was so well recieved by the staff and guests it almost made me forget about this.
Worst Day in Recent History…
24 October 2007 | broken arm, carlyle, dessert, fenouil, jeff | No Responses
It all started last night, I forgot both my keys and phone at work, then I couldn’t sleep, ended up watching a horrible early morning movie. After I finally got to sleep I woke up to late, realized I didn’t have my keys…and had to ride my bike to work under rain-heavy skies. When I got there…it was locked…after waiting ten minutes, Bruce let me in and when I found my phone, I had several messages. Two of which messages hinted toward how I had not shown up for shifts at Fenouil and that my job there was on the line!! Apparently I had misread the schedule and was looking at the wrong week!!! Damn it!! After much phone deliberation I sped over there on my bike to hash it all out and try and keep my job. Which I did (whew.) On my way back to Carlyle, however, in the pouring rain, I slipped-out on a street car track and crashed my bike!!! And of course threw out my bad wrist to catch myself!! So my entire painful shift of new menu prep and dinner desserts was done with one hand, and one severely swollen hand/wrist!! I hope I didn’t re-break the fucker!! Sheesh!! WWSMD?
There’s a New Pastry Jeff at Carlyle.
20 October 2007 | carlyle, chef, dessert | 5 Responses
So I took the job at Carlyle. The self application of the title “Chef” for me is still a little tough. I’ve always referred to myself as a “cook” because I think the Chef title is thrown around a bit too readily these days. Thanks to Food on TV everybody and his immersion circulating cousin is calling themselves one. When I call someone “Chef” there’s a lot of respect that comes with it. I hope that my work garners that respect from others, especially my peers in the kitchen. It is definitely time in my career, however, to challenge myself and step up to the role. It’s exciting starting in a new place and even more exciting to be creating new desserts. My tasting went extremely well, and I think that after working out some of the kinks, some of those items will end up on the menu. I’ve done two big parties already in my first week, and I’m already bustin’ out some cool desserts. I’m hoping to have the new menu up by the end of this week!!
