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Devil’s Food Cake with Dulce de Leche Mousse.

in possibly my best effort in plated dessert design to date, I give my faithful readers this fucking thing.  Hopefully, the plate exudes a clean elegance, peppered with a touch of how’ did he do that? Well, I’ll tell you.  The sponge cake base is a classic Devil’s Food cake recipe that I found in one of my new favorite cookbooks, Dessert Fourplay by Johnny Iuzzini. The recipe calls for mayonnaise, which tickles me, and keeps the cake super-moist.  The science of that is kind of obvious: cake batters have eggs and oil, mayo is eggs and oil emulsified.  On top of the sponge cake I pipe a chocolate icing that I found the recipe for on the best food site ever, IDEAS IN FOOD. The icing calls for sweetened condensed milk (like the dulche,) and balsamic vinegar to blend with dark chocolate.  The sticky icing has a nice subtle acid note, a quiet personality.  On top of the icing is a thin piece of tempered chocolate, a nice thin snappy-crunch.  I’ve seen garnish this used a lot; especially in Parisian pastry shops.   With the help of my ChocoBot, some marble slabs, and some precise cuts, this process proved to be quite easy.  Just like Salted Caramel Sauce, easy peasy-smack-a-jeezy.  Really, the only semi-difficult element to this dish is the dulce de leche mousse.  The recipe it self is no brain-tease; just a spin on a white chocolate mousse.  In fact, I was originally going to use caramelized white chocolate, but decided the laborious process wasn’t worth the taste.  It tastes like dulce, so why not just use dulce?  Making dulce de leche is not hard, just kinda weird.  Take a few cans of sweetened condensed milk, place them in a large pot (yes in the can.)  Fill the pot with water, be sure to cover the cans by a few inches.  Bring the water to a boil, and keep boiling for 3 to 4 hours.  Keep a bucket of water nearby to refill the water as it evaporates.  After 4 hours, kill the heat and dump out the water.  Cover the cans with ice to cool them off.  When cooled, open the cans and enjoy the dulceness.  I know this sounds strange, but it’s way easier than the traditional method. So here’s the hard part, molding the cylinders.  Not really hard I guess, just time consuming.  I’ve seen Michael Laiskonis of Le Bernardin make cool cylnders on his blog,  and always wanted to try it.  After a month of experimenting, I have a process.  There’s got to be a better way, but here’s how I do it.  Take your cannoli forms and line one side of each mold with tin foil. Stand them upright in a six pan or secured with a rubber band on a sheet tray. Line each mold with acetate, the thin clear plastic stuff.  When the mousse is ready, pipe it into the molds.  Freeze them shits rock hard, at least 3 hours, better to do it overnight.  \Demold the mousse and plate while frozen, and thaw in the fridge on the plates. Serve with desired components.  Or wrap them shits.

Dulce De Leche Mousse

4 1/2 sheets of gelatin.

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

1 lb 5 oz Dulce de Leche

1 1/2 cups heavy cream

1.  Bloom the gelatin in cold water.

2.  Weigh the dulce de leche into a bowl.  Bring the first measurement of cream to a boil, and then pour it over the ducle.  Drain and add the gelatin.  Whisk to combine.  Or use an immersion blender.

3.  Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.  Meanwhile, whip the second measurement of cream to soft peaks.

4.  Fold in the cream gently.  Pipe into desired molds, or just into a martini glass.  Chill until set and enjoy.


WW’s Eat Mobile Carty Awards: I ate my Face Off.

I was thrilled when contacted by Ben Waterhouse of Willamette Week to be a judge for this event.  I love street food, I often drive downtown to hit the 10th street carts for Aybla’s gyros.  After seeing the list of competing carts however, I was already biased towards Flavour, my favorite cart in all the land.  They serve a hand-held dutch waffle taco filled with various combinations of delicious.  Anyway; as my brother and I approach the venue, we scoot to the front of the 2 block long line.  We meet Ben at the gate;  I get my judges packet, bypassing throngs of sharp looks and hungry faces.  Once inside, I get my wristband and grab an Aquavit cocktail from Matt at House Spirits. After that, Jaybill and I ate it all. A clean sweep of the open outdoor area, revisiting a table to eat and discuss.  At our first booth we were pushed aside by a Oscar Bluth look-alike in a Trailblazers jersey.  After that we waded to the front of long lines with our judges badge, accepting sidelong glances and the hottest plates of food.  We filled out our score cards without getting too much sauce on them.  Once inside, the waffle smell engulfed us, and hey…more cocktais!  If you held a gun to my head and asked what I remembered, I’d say: smoked salmon and cream cheese ice cream, banana nutella grilled cheese, bees knees cocktails, hot chicks and hot sauce with a warm setting sun on vegan tacos.  A search party of volunteers searched for me while the other judges dilberated, I was roaming drinking and eating.  The grassroots of this event and the frequent familiar faces led me to a satiated inebriation, a stuttering acceptance of existence during something awesome, a fat slice of time with toasted meringue, perfect clarity.  Tits and champagne as they say.  The judges ruled as I would have, had I been there, to rule.  Junior Ambassador took the cake with his salmon ice cream, his Sgt Pepper’s style coat.  Grilled Cheese Grill man took the stage fighting tears and clutching the people’s choice award.  Thier booth was by far the most fun, with laughing and carrying on and cooking of great grilled sandwiches. Nutella and mascarpone, on cinnamon swirl bread?  Holy shit.  Check out the menu for this cart, mainly the Cheesus Burger.  Flavour got some kind of honorable mention,  I guess they were out of their element. They waffles just weren’t the same for some reason.  How could they compete with Junior’s maple bacon ice cream anyway?

Two guys that ate wat too much.  But picked up Oreos on the way home…


Milk Chocolate Cheesecake: BAM!!

As my faithful readers may guess, I hesitate to utter or type the word “bam,” let alone “BAM!”  I find it appropriate here however because of two things.  Firstly, I stole this recipe from none other than the “bam-man” himself, Emeril Lagasse. Second this cheesecake hits you like so many extra handfulls of whatever it may be, BAM! Leaving the audience (you,) asking for more. At first glance, any pastry minded person would wonder at the food processor method and the addition of flour for this cheesecake.  Also, no water bath while baking?  My employer Adam mused that it was no doubt some kind of shortcut or compensation for poor technique.  The likelihood of him being correct doesn’t change the silky texture and pure indulgence of this tangy chocolately treat.  The only thing did I differently was to increase the milk chocolate by 2 ounces.   I use a water bath, too.  I just have to.  I also use a milk-chocolate feuillitine crust after baking and chilling and an oreo cookie round when it hits the plate.  I make the milk chocolate crust by melting the chocolate over a double-bloier, then mixing in enough feuillitine to have a fluid but crunchy texture.  I bet you could use chopped cereal flakes and have similiar results, if you’re having trouble finding the feuillitine. I hate soggy graham cracker crust.  At first I baked it in a square and cut rectangles, but soon switched to the demisphere, which due to gravity actually bakes things into truncated domes.  I glaze them in dark chocolate and pipe the cute little milk chocolate lines.  For sauce I use a blood orange caramel, which balances with he milk chocolate nicely.  When I sauce the plate, I envision the mask of Rorschach from Watchmen, because I’m a silly dreamer.

Emeril Lagasse’s Milk Chocolate Cheesecake

3 pounds cream cheese, softened

2 cups sugar

6 large eggs

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup bleached all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

10 ounces milk chocolate, melted

Beat the cream cheese in a food processor until smooth. Add the sugar and process. Add the eggs 1 at a time, running the processor in between each addition. Add the heavy cream, flour, salt, and vanilla and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. With the motor running, add the chocolate in a steady stream. Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Bake (in a water bath) until the center of the cake sets, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Oreo Cookie

1 1/2 cups powdered sugar

8 oz soft butter

1 tsp salt

1 tblsp vanilla extract

1/2 cup cocoa powder

2 1/2 cups A.P. Flour

Cream the butter, salt and sugar well, but not to light and fluffy

Sift in the flour and cocoa powder, then mix to form a dough

Cover with plastic and chill at least one hour before rolling on a floured surface and cutting out cookies

Bake at 350 for 12 minutes


Weird Desserts.

In my exploration of flavor combinations, I’ve made up some weird desserts.  I mean, for awhile, all I made was weird desserts.  I liked things that were different, that made people think!  At Carlyle I tried to deep fry bread pudding.  It was good.  People didn’t get it.  I put a doughnut on the plate with poached pears.  People didn’t get it.  At ten-01, I’ve refined my style a little bit.  I did less weird, but still unusual.  Twists, if you will.  Well, you can sell that shit to the fucking tourists; people still didn’t get it. Chef Jack taught me to write menus that sounded as good as they tasted.  Chocolate Whiskey Cake with Brown Butter Caramel and Dulche de Leche Ice Cream sounds pretty fucking good.  I have to cook for your demographic.  I have to make desserts that people don’t think about, they just buy.  The average Portland diner isn’t a jaded big city type; used to everything from fried mayonnaise to “weird fish.”  Sure they got behind grassy sage ice cream, but they seem to want desserts well inside the comfort zone.  Vanilla Creme Brulee.  Pear fritters.  I sell more ice cream then anything else.  I’ve got a new cheesecake; which is going over well, but I find my plating skills have hit a plateau.  At least dessert of last year is off.  I’ve enjoyed some banquet dessert success as well recently.  I need some input…some inspiration.  Fuck, I need some fucking berries already!!


Molten Chocolate Doughnut.

Everyone who has ever eaten in a restaurant, from Jean Georges to Chili’s, has heard of the Molten Chocolate Cake. It has been called many names: lava cake, volcano cake, molten lava cake, melting chocolate cake, and warm melting chocolate cake, but are all basically the same. An almost flour-less cake with usually equal parts butter and chocolate, with eggs and sugar. Baked in a mold until almost set, served warm and oozing, it is the bane of pastry chefs everywhere. Leastways, it’s baned the shit out of me, ranking second only behind Creme Brulee as most annoyingly de rigueur dessert for non-adventurous diners. Chances are, if you worked in pastry, you’ve served some version of this cake. Anyway, in recent days I’ve had my head buried in Johnny Iuzzini’s book Dessert Four Play. One of the most eye catching recipes for me was his Crispy Creamy Chocolate Doughnuts. His method, seemingly daunting, involves many advanced techniques and obscure ingredients. I wanted to make this dessert pretty badly, even going so far as contacting Terra Spice Company and pricing some of these odd chemicals. My brain then farted loudly and reminded me of a similar dessert I saw in another of my favorite cookbooks; Desserts by the Yard by Sherry Yard. She uses her truffle cake batter to make what she calls Deep, Dark, Decadent Doughnuts. Reviewing the Truffle Cake recipe, I did a double take. Fucking Lava Cake. Deep fried Molten Chocolate Cake. I had to give it a try. Was is going to be like Johnny’s? Doubtful. Would it be deliciously decadent? More than likely. I made the recipe and proceeded with the normal method. The doughnuts oozed way to thinly, essentially chocolate sauce encased in panko. After doubling, then tripling, and again and again; I ended up at eight times the flour in the original recipe to get the right consistency. These things are a bit of a pain in the ass, I won’t lie. Most excruciatingly scrumptious things are. I made eighty of them for a recent event at Ten-01. Thanks to Johnny for the inspiration, and to Sherry for a more down to Earth approach.

Molten Chocolate Doughnuts

8 oz dark chocolate (64%)

8 oz butter

6 eggs

3/4 cup sugar

2 cups all purpose flour

fluer de sel

panko, egg wash, and more flour as needed to bread

1. Bring the butter to a boil and pour it over the chocolate. Whisk smooth and keep warm.

2. Whip the sugar and the eggs about three minutes; until lemon-colored and almost double in volume.

3. Whisk the chocolate into the eggs all at once, whisking smooth.

4. Add the flour, again whisking smooth.

5. Transfer the batter to a flexible silicon mold and freeze rock hard, at least 4 hours.

6. Turn the cake out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a 2 1/2 inch doughnut cutter, cut out 9 doughnuts.

7. Bread the doughnuts twice, according to the standard breading procedure, and refreeze until ready to fry.

8. Deep fry at 350 until golden brown, and hold at room temp for service. Heat through in a 300 degree oven until warmed through, about 10-12 minutes. Sprinkle with salt. Serve with Pistachio Creme Anglaise if you like.


When the Waffle Fucked The Doughnut…

I’ve been through a lot with this bread pudding recipe.  I’ve done about ten different versions since I’ve been at Ten-01; and until a recent mishap, was about to give up on it.  I was trying to bake the pudding in a dome mold, trying to coax a new plate design out of this tired old custard soaked bread.  The flexible silicon molds produced perfect little domes, but they were all custardy near the top.  Also, the crusty upper region, the best part, was now on the bottom.  I fed one to Chef and he was not into it.  It got me thinking.  Like I said, the best part of this pudding is the top inch or so of dark brown crustiness.  So I cut off the part that was soggy custard, ending up with perfect round disks, perfect for sandwiching something.  I bet could achieve that same result by baking it in a thin layer in a sheet pan.  Hmmm…..I went back to the recipe’s roots to start a flavor profile.  When I learned it from Tony, it was Bourbon Bread Pudding.  Maker’s Mark glug-glugged it’s way into the custard once more.  I had made Butter Pecan ice cream the week before and it’s salty richness held up the bourbony pudding nicely.  Salted Caramel sauce also fit in well.  I’ve been experimenting with different tuile cookies lately, and  Lace Tuile made it into this presentation because of it’s simple light crunch.  I learned some new things with this dessert.  Firstly, that I can bake bread pudding in a thin layer and get great results.  Second, I can form freshly spun ice cream into a sausage and slice it at service, for a nice clean portion.  At first I made a plastic wrap tube a la Michel Richard, but after a quick chat with John our sausage maker, I was using collagen casings for my ice cream logs.  This dessert is selling like crazy, and is making the Chocolate Cake look so last year.  On the menu it reads Ice Cream Sandwich, and I think that really sells it.  It recalls childhood, a whimsical peek at the past.  Soaked in bourbon.  Learn how to make bread pudding here.  Make Butter Pecan Ice Cream and Lace Tuile with the recipes below.  Add salt to your favorite caramel sauce recipe.  Enjoy delicious sweets.

Butter Pecan Ice Cream adapted from Ben&Jerry’s Ice Cream Book.

8 oz butter

2 cups pecan pieces

1 tsp salt

4 eggs

1 1/2 cups sugar

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup milk

1.Saute the pecans in the buuter until the butter begins to browm slightly.  Sprinkle in the salt.  Strain off the butter and reserve.  Spread the pecans on a sheet tray to cool

2.Whip the eggs in a stand mixer until light and frothy, then add the sugar.  Whip on high to ribbon stage (4-5 minutes?)

3.Reduce the mixer speed to it’s lowest setting and pour in the milk and cream.

4.Transfer the mix into a blender and with it running, pour in the butter to emulsify.  I like to puree in some of the toasted nuts at this point as well.

5.Spin the mix in your ice cream machine, adding the nuts a few minutes before the ice cream is done.  Eat some immediately.  Using a pastry bag, pipe it into a sausage casing and freeze if desired.

Lace Tuile

8 oz butter

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 oz honey

1 oz brandy

2/3 cup flour

pinch of salt

1.  Cream the butter and the sugar in a stand mixer.

2.  Add the honey and brandy and mix to combine.

3.  Add the flour and salt and mix to form a smooth paste.  Spread thinly onto a non-stick baking mat and bake until golden brown in a 350 degree oven.  Mold while warm over a rolling pin.

My buddy David, a server at the restaurant, told me one day how he loved my bread pudding.  He told me it was as if a waffle had fucked a doughnut.  I don’t think he was pleased with my reaction to his verbal description, so he took it a step further and drew this illustration.  Thanks Dave, I’m glad you like it.


nomnomnomnom: Dolphin-Fish, Chorizo, Lobster Hollandaise

Kate hit up Trader Joe’s last week and returned with fish.  She found some frozen Sockeye Salmon, which we had early in the week; and also Mahi-Mahi, aka Dolphin Fish.  I find Dorado tasteless and bland; seeing the frozen filets hinted no different.  They appeared as they probably were going to taste.  Perfect rectangles of an impossible gray that defied metaphor.  I knew they would need a rich sauce, and a spicy side.  I had a deli cup of clarified lobster butter (thanks Chef,) begging for hollandaise. Our sausage guy had hooked me up with some smoked Chorizo awhile back, I stumbled upon that in the freezer searching for fat.  A deli cup of rice pilaf from the fridge smelled good.  Dinner was upon us!!  I sliced the Chorizo and rendered it on a silpat the oven.  Conviently, I had cooked bacon on this same pan for breakfast; I had a ton of delicious grease to cook with.  When the sausage was hot and oozing fat, I removed them form the pan and replaced them with halved pearl onions which then roasted, filling the house with a sweet and spicy smell.  I knew shellfish and chorizo were money together, and figured since mahi doesn’t really taste like anything, the lobster hollandaise and smoked sausage could lift up this lackluster fish.  I knocked together the sauce; volumized yolks, whisked in fat, seasoned with salt, pepper, vinegar.  I heated up the rice in the pot that I warmed the lobster butter in, much to my fiancee’s chagrin.  I reheated my sausage bits with the almost-done onions.  The fish hit a screaming hot pan with a searing sizzle and when flipped hit the oven.  After waiting four minutes I threw in two empty plates.  Steaming food hit warm plates 3 minutes later.  Hollandaise oozed.  Lips smacked.  Hunger: at bay once more.


FUCK!! part II: Snowboarding, Boredom, and Leftovers.

We lived in limbo for a few days, concerned about our kitchen. The broken water pipe had been connected to the restaurants heat system, which we really needed to open.  The weather had taken a turn for the worse, and would soon prove to be one of Portland history’s most devastating storms. On Thursday around noon, after a morning of nail biting and pacing, my buddy Nate called me; “Let’s go night riding at Ski Bowl!”  I had no excuse, he was offering me a free lift ticket. I called Perez to see if he wanted in, I knew he was going just as stir crazy as I was. The city of Portland had shut down; chain-slapping buses spun sporadicly in the falling fluff.  We knew the mountain had been dumped on.  We rallied around 4 pm to embark on a two and a half hour journey in Nate’s 78 VW Bus.  We chained up around Rhododendron; the roads were getting nastier the higer up we got.  Perez was periodically recieving phone calls from our bosses, keeping us posted about the restaurant.  After much back and forth, we learned that we’d be closed until next week.  Our concerns lifted, an icy updraft, when we saw the lights of Ski Bowl. Heavy snowfall blanketed the mountain, and we were soon strapped in and smiling. We drank PBRs as we ascended the lift, smiling and swinging.  We raged the gnar for three hours or so, carving powder and bally-hooing to each other as we mached by.  I missed the mountain life.  Everything makes sense when you can carve powder turns.  We finished our beers in the parking lot and headed home.  The weekend went by slowly.  The skies were gray the roads were gray and the snow that covered everything was gray.  I felt the walls closing in; I lost myself in the web.  I annoyed my dogs with guitar and no walks.  I happily braved Tri-met to meet Chef and Perez on Sunday at the restaurant. I was prepping Tabla desserts and they were cleaning out the walk-in.  We crammed all we could into our freezers, but a good amount of food was about to spoil.  Not surprisingly,  Perez and I immediately volunteered to cook and eat the food.  It would be a crime of the highest order not to.  A damn shame.  We packed up what we could, and grabbing beer near 4th, caught a bus to my place.  We hit the grocery to augment our booty.  We drank and cooked and cranked music. We thrashed my little kitchen and dirtied every pot, pan and dish.  We even fired up Old Blue. My fiancee was out of town so it seemed the thing to do. We cooked and ate, carrying on and finally enjoying a bit of this down time…by cooking.  It made life feel semi-normal.  Through all the bedlam, the food was there for us.  We got back into the restaurant early in the week and re-prepped everything we had lost. Teddy put our kitchen back together.  Christmas day came and went. The rains finally came and washed away the slush and snow, the city awoke.  People mingled in the streets, then filled the seats in the dining room.  Smiling servers ferried food to grinning guests.  A storm had come, and in it’s wake a sharper image, clarity. I felt as if the people around me were looking at each other a bit different, feeling a warmer glow. I felt an in-the-trenches level oneness, a communal happiness to be back at work. Sometimes shit happens, and all you can do is dive in and swim.


Nomnomnomnom: Pork Belly Benedict.

In an outstanding feat of restaurant leftovers I created a delicious brunch this past Sunday.  Anyone in Portland could tell you how cold it was this day, and a how a lavish, greasy breakfast was in order.  At the restaurant we serve pork belly, naturally.  It’s one of Chef’s greatest dishes. The precise bacon wrapped portions create a bit of side product, which we sometimes use for sliders or staff meal. Sometimes I take home a little package for the freezer; a lazy Sunday.  I rendered off about 4 ounces of meat.  Combined with a bit of fat I had reserved from another project, I had about 3 ounces.  Emulisfing it into one egg yolk, It was just enough for one portion of silky sauce.  Snow drifted down outside, and the smell of fat filled the house, warming us.  I toasted the leftover brioche and poached the eggs.  Spinning the water and dropping the eggs, they simmered lightly just below the boiling point.  I usually use vinegar in this situation but not using any had a pleasant result.  Unseemly as they cooked, most of the whites dispersed into the water.   I ended up with perfectly cooked yolks however, and it’s all about the yolks right?  I loose chopped the pork belly and warmed it in a pan with butter. Everything came together on a warmed plate and smoked black sea salt. A most satisfying of meals, I felt it filled me up nicely.  I wasn’t even hungry until I saw the pulled pork that night at Jaybill’s.


Herb Ice Cream: make it like a Dick.

Mark Dunleavy showed me this process.  He’s kind of a dick.  Since he created the Chorizo Burger however, I’ve paid attention when he talks about food.  Except for that one time with the Consomme, when I wasn’t paying attention at all.  Anyway, he’s a keeper. He told me he learned the following technique from the pastry chef at Blue Hour, where he worked as a pastry cook.  I respect Mark’s resume.  I mean here he was, grinding herbs for ice cream down the street, making desserts, then he simply wheels around the block, and starts working saute at the restaurant.  Y’know…cooking happy hour and shit.

So here’s what you do weigh the sugar and the herb you want to use into the Robo-Coupe and grind it into a paste. Place this paste in your sauce pot and add the dairy product.  Bring to a boil and cover the pot, killing the heat.  Steep for thirty minutes.  Temper in your yolks cook to nape, stirring, scraping often with a spat. Pour the base into a hotel pan to cool in the fridge.  I usually ripen the base overnight in a cambro. It’s not imperative but does increase the flavor.  Next day strain that shit into your Gelatoo-D2 unit and spin to a stiff sour cream consistency.  The base recipe was adapted from AB’s, but Mark taught me the herb-paste bit. I imagine it works so well because it really opens up the herbs, and prepares to steep. You also achieve a bright, herby color this way.  I want to say something about surface area but I don’t know if that’s right.  It works great for Mint Chip and any other herb you might like to try.  I’ve also used this herb grinding to make a Rosemary Pine Nut Tart for TXGV,  but that’s another story.

Herb Ice Cream

yields 2 qts.

6 cups half & half

2 cups heavy cream

18 oz sugar

2-3 bunches herbs (sage, mint, basil, etc.)

16 egg yolks

1.  Grind the sugar and herbs to a paste, and place them in a sauce pot with the dairy products. Bring to a boil and cover, kill the heat and steep for thirty minutes.

3.  Seperate the eggs into a bowl, whisk vigorously.**

4. Temper the hot liquid into the yolks.  Cook over medium heat unit it thickens up, or about 165 F, if you want to get fancy. Scrape and stir often with a rubber spatula.  It should coat the back of a spoon when its ready.

5.  Pour the base out into a shallow pan to cool rapidly under refrigeration.

6.  Once thoroghly chilled, trasfer to a storage vessel for overnite ripening.

7.  Next day strain into your ice cream machine and spin accordingly.  Serve with a famous dessert.

**In the original AB recipe, he whisks the sugar with the yolks, thick and pale.  This created a really good texture in the finished ice cream.  I remember that Good Eats episode now, and it was something about protein.  Next time I make this, I think I’ll use a portion of the sugar to do this.