Archives Under "custard" (RSS)
When the Waffle Fucked The Doughnut…
25 January 2009 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, custard, delicious, jack yoss, plated dessert | 7 Responses
I’ve been through a lot with this bread pudding recipe. I’ve done about ten different versions since I’ve been at Ten-01; and until a recent mishap, was about to give up on it. I was trying to bake the pudding in a dome mold, trying to coax a new plate design out of this tired old custard soaked bread. The flexible silicon molds produced perfect little domes, but they were all custardy near the top. Also, the crusty upper region, the best part, was now on the bottom. I fed one to Chef and he was not into it. It got me thinking. Like I said, the best part of this pudding is the top inch or so of dark brown crustiness. So I cut off the part that was soggy custard, ending up with perfect round disks, perfect for sandwiching something. I bet could achieve that same result by baking it in a thin layer in a sheet pan. Hmmm…..I went back to the recipe’s roots to start a flavor profile. When I learned it from Tony, it was Bourbon Bread Pudding. Maker’s Mark glug-glugged it’s way into the custard once more. I had made Butter Pecan ice cream the week before and it’s salty richness held up the bourbony pudding nicely. Salted Caramel sauce also fit in well. I’ve been experimenting with different tuile cookies lately, and Lace Tuile made it into this presentation because of it’s simple light crunch. I learned some new things with this dessert. Firstly, that I can bake bread pudding in a thin layer and get great results. Second, I can form freshly spun ice cream into a sausage and slice it at service, for a nice clean portion. At first I made a plastic wrap tube a la Michel Richard, but after a quick chat with John our sausage maker, I was using collagen casings for my ice cream logs. This dessert is selling like crazy, and is making the Chocolate Cake look so last year. On the menu it reads Ice Cream Sandwich, and I think that really sells it. It recalls childhood, a whimsical peek at the past. Soaked in bourbon. Learn how to make bread pudding here. Make Butter Pecan Ice Cream and Lace Tuile with the recipes below. Add salt to your favorite caramel sauce recipe. Enjoy delicious sweets.
Butter Pecan Ice Cream adapted from Ben&Jerry’s Ice Cream Book.
8 oz butter
2 cups pecan pieces
1 tsp salt
4 eggs
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
1.Saute the pecans in the buuter until the butter begins to browm slightly. Sprinkle in the salt. Strain off the butter and reserve. Spread the pecans on a sheet tray to cool
2.Whip the eggs in a stand mixer until light and frothy, then add the sugar. Whip on high to ribbon stage (4-5 minutes?)
3.Reduce the mixer speed to it’s lowest setting and pour in the milk and cream.
4.Transfer the mix into a blender and with it running, pour in the butter to emulsify. I like to puree in some of the toasted nuts at this point as well.
5.Spin the mix in your ice cream machine, adding the nuts a few minutes before the ice cream is done. Eat some immediately. Using a pastry bag, pipe it into a sausage casing and freeze if desired.
Lace Tuile
8 oz butter
1 1/2 cups sugar
1 oz honey
1 oz brandy
2/3 cup flour
pinch of salt
1. Cream the butter and the sugar in a stand mixer.
2. Add the honey and brandy and mix to combine.
3. Add the flour and salt and mix to form a smooth paste. Spread thinly onto a non-stick baking mat and bake until golden brown in a 350 degree oven. Mold while warm over a rolling pin.
My buddy David, a server at the restaurant, told me one day how he loved my bread pudding. He told me it was as if a waffle had fucked a doughnut. I don’t think he was pleased with my reaction to his verbal description, so he took it a step further and drew this illustration. Thanks Dave, I’m glad you like it.
Herb Ice Cream: make it like a Dick.
13 December 2008 | Ten 01, custard, delicious, food, recipe | 7 Responses
Mark Dunleavy showed me this process. He’s kind of a dick. Since he created the Chorizo Burger however, I’ve paid attention when he talks about food. Except for that one time with the Consomme, when I wasn’t paying attention at all. Anyway, he’s a keeper. He told me he learned the following technique from the pastry chef at Blue Hour, where he worked as a pastry cook. I respect Mark’s resume. I mean here he was, grinding herbs for ice cream down the street, making desserts, then he simply wheels around the block, and starts working saute at the restaurant. Y’know…cooking happy hour and shit.
So here’s what you do weigh the sugar and the herb you want to use into the Robo-Coupe and grind it into a paste. Place this paste in your sauce pot and add the dairy product. Bring to a boil and cover the pot, killing the heat. Steep for thirty minutes. Temper in your yolks cook to nape, stirring, scraping often with a spat. Pour the base into a hotel pan to cool in the fridge. I usually ripen the base overnight in a cambro. It’s not imperative but does increase the flavor. Next day strain that shit into your Gelatoo-D2 unit and spin to a stiff sour cream consistency. The base recipe was adapted from AB’s, but Mark taught me the herb-paste bit. I imagine it works so well because it really opens up the herbs, and prepares to steep. You also achieve a bright, herby color this way. I want to say something about surface area but I don’t know if that’s right. It works great for Mint Chip and any other herb you might like to try. I’ve also used this herb grinding to make a Rosemary Pine Nut Tart for TXGV, but that’s another story.
Herb Ice Cream
yields 2 qts.
6 cups half & half
2 cups heavy cream
18 oz sugar
2-3 bunches herbs (sage, mint, basil, etc.)
16 egg yolks
1. Grind the sugar and herbs to a paste, and place them in a sauce pot with the dairy products. Bring to a boil and cover, kill the heat and steep for thirty minutes.
3. Seperate the eggs into a bowl, whisk vigorously.**
4. Temper the hot liquid into the yolks. Cook over medium heat unit it thickens up, or about 165 F, if you want to get fancy. Scrape and stir often with a rubber spatula. It should coat the back of a spoon when its ready.
5. Pour the base out into a shallow pan to cool rapidly under refrigeration.
6. Once thoroghly chilled, trasfer to a storage vessel for overnite ripening.
7. Next day strain into your ice cream machine and spin accordingly. Serve with a famous dessert.
**In the original AB recipe, he whisks the sugar with the yolks, thick and pale. This created a really good texture in the finished ice cream. I remember that Good Eats episode now, and it was something about protein. Next time I make this, I think I’ll use a portion of the sugar to do this.
Caramel Mousse Cake.
27 August 2008 | Ten 01, creative presentation of the week, custard, delicious, plated dessert | 1 Response
I ran this dessert as a special last weekend and it sold pretty well. With milk chocolate sauce and hazelnut praline, it looked sharp and tasted delicious. The chocolate base is Tony’s truffle sponge, almost a brownie but with egg whites folded in. The central crunchy layer was a caramel candy filling, which I augmented with a little milk chocolate and feuilletine. The mousse was a new recipe, one I found on Cuisine French. The recipe caught my eye because it assumed a certain level of knowledge and technique. For example, step three in the recipe states “prepare a custard with the milk, sugar, constarch, and egg yolks.” That’s my kind of recipe. The praline garnish, I’m embarrassed to say, is isomalt. This synthetic sugar always makes me feel like a cheater, a corner-cutter and a hack. It is a beautiful garnish however, so I guess it’s OK. I learned how to make those over ten years ago now. Hmph….I’m getting old. Meanwhile, it’s business as usual at the restaurant, things have been picking up. The Oregoinian released an excellent review of us last week, and we’ve been seeing increasing numbers. I couldn’t find the review online…even without mention of the desserts-it was a good one. 
One Dude-3 hours.
15 November 2007 | carlyle, custard, delicious, dessert | No Responses
So thaaaats how long it takes to use every single whip, spat, bowl, and container in the kitchen. Actually, its probably not even a third of the small wares, but certainly all the spats. AB would be ashamed of me. Anyhoo there was a lot of stirring and straining and spinning going on today making ice creams. Today we have blueberry white chocolate, and lemon meringue. For the blueberry I folded in frozen berries and white chocolate mouse to a custard base. Lemon curd and soft merinque went in more base for the other. The blueberry was very white chocolatey, and the lemon was tasty. A good start. I also made malted milk chocolate peanut butter and a base for salted whiskey caramel. I enjoy making ice creams and sorbets, because once I have base made, I can always be spinning. I’ll be all hell of into doing something else (such as a simple plating) and the machine will go ”BEEP!” Then we eat soft serve. Just keep spinning..Just Keep spinning
SPINNING ALL DAY!!!
The First Menu.
27 October 2007 | bacon, carlyle, custard, delicious, dessert, plated dessert | 2 Responses
The first night of the new dessert menu for Carlyle…well…it kicked ass. The Car Bomb was of course the big seller, closely followed by The Deep Fried Caramel Apple Bread Pudding. I was really happy with how the Cheesecake Three Ways went out, it was a study in cheesy custard. We only sold two Velvet Elvis, but it was so great to hear the chef call it out across the kitchen, and to see dessert go out with bacon on it. When the runner picked it up I called “Elvis has left the kitchen!” The Rosemary Pinenut Tartlette was the sleeper, but a guest told the owner it was “damn good.” I also put out a special order Apple Pie, for which we charged an exorbitant price. The menu was so well recieved by the staff and guests it almost made me forget about this.
Fries With One Hand
17 August 2007 | broken arm, chocolate, custard, delicious, dessert, food porn, pictures, plated dessert | 4 Responses
If I can make a custard with one arm, then I can make bread pudding. If I can make bread pudding, then I can deep fry it. Jaybill came up with idea as a joke, but I really liked the idea of taking old croissants, soaking them in custard, baking them in a waterbath, breading them with panko, and then deep frying them. Anyway here’s Panko-Fried Chocolate Bread Pudding. PFBP for short. Check out how to make it in my new Recipes section.
Replate!
7 August 2007 | blueberries, custard, dessert, fenouil, funnel cakes, pate choux, plated dessert, tasting | 1 Response
I did some refining to the funnel cake concept. One reason is I knew I could get in cleaner, and another is that as much as I love stinky cheese, tallegio mousse is just gross. So I went with a butternilk custard instead, and it turned out quite nicely. Getting there!! Keri’s picture is practically edible.
