I’ve run into a diverse cross-section of chefs, and Mike Perez is one of the best I’ve known.  He’s more gringo than Mexican, but he’s still a great cook.  He’s got the humble pan pusher work-ethic, and the passionate drive to make the best food.  We’ve got an easy raport that sometimes speaks volumes in a look, the kind of in-the-trenches kind of friendship that only true kitchen lifers know.  Sometimes during service, deep in humping out food, he’ll just crack a sly smile.  “Ain’t nothin’ to a boss!” Sometimes, he’ll look at me like Murderface, and I’ll know what he means; you nasty, girl! As a faithful reader, our jokes got jokes, laughter comes easy.  I’m proud to rank him among the top people I’ve met in this business, and as a lifelong friend.  As all cooks know, you run into those people in your careers; the kind of peeps you say you’ll work with again, maybe even open up your own place, and with Chepe it’s no different.  With him I can almost see it actually happening.  We both were privileged to be mentored by Chef Jack Yoss, and as anyone who has worked with Jack knows, that’s something. I’ve learned a lot working with Perez, watching him cook, lead the cooks. I’ve jumped down, I’ve turned around, I’ve picked a bag of cotton.  I’ve been violated. I’ve enjoyed some long services, some outlandish circumstances. We’ve even spent some time together off the clock, riding the mountain, eating and drinking.  Drinking, eating, cooking, drinking.  The guy loves food. I recall once I was drinking creme anglaise out of the blender.  Perez walks up and laughs, then asks for a hit.   You really have to respect a guy that will drink creme anglaise out of a blender.  Well…I do anyway.

I stood behind Chef Jack and watched him address the crowd.  His words numbed me, the lights were warm and dazzling.  My body was worked and my brain was out of breath, the past weeks whirlwind had me winded.  Having been pitted against a punishing prep list, long days and busy nights, I end up here.  On a stage, people applauding; dessert service forks and tinkling wine glasses, laughter in my ears.  My mind flashed back onstage, the past year, month, week, moment.  My career’s skyrocket since meeting Jack and starting at Ten-01. Working, always working.  So many great dinners, so many memories.  Perez and I working Sunday before investor sponsored staff party. This whole day, prepping and plating; flashing in my mind.  We just kicked out the best dinner this group’s seen, over a thousand plates over five courses in 2 hours. I left the hall elated and grabbed an icy cold bottle of white and hit the showers.  That night, its was late night shots and darts with one of the best chefs I’ll meet, a friend and mentor. He believed in my talent and demanded my proper execution, encouraging and strong.  It was an easy parting for him and I; just farewell, both sure of our permanent friendship. Besides, I know he’ll never really get lost out there.  Our paths will cross again.

Here’s a pork loin sandwich created by Ten-01 sous chef Arturo Lopez. Brined and slow roasted pork loin with provolone, pickled shallots, and pea tendril salad. Arturo puts such love and concentration into everything he cooks, I love when he cooks me food. For example, on this sandwich, he puts the shallots in between the slices of cheese so they don’t slide around. He thinks about shit like that. He’s got the love, simply put. He always sends extra food my way or over to the dishers. Like Thai-Style Pork Ribs. Lately I’ve been enjoying the new Lamb set, with the ever-delicious goat cheese gnocchi (which Arturo always makes) and artichokes. I watched him cook me one up the other night. He knew it was for me but he still bent over it in concentration, standing up the pieces just right. Arturo is the kind of chef who watches all day. He even observes when I don’t eat, and then brings me some food. “I saw you ate some fries but…” He knows the mise on my station, so he’s always asking me if I need this or that, and if I know about today’s party. He’ fucking on it. Chingon. I’ve learned so much working with this him that I feel like I’ve known him for years. He humbly knows all I know, and if he doesn’t know he can still do it better than me. He’s always got a better way, from the simple to the complex. Chef and he have been working together for a long time, and I can see why. It’s like father and son almost. Also coming off Arturo’s station is Chef’s new Squab Dish (below.) The legs are meticulously de-boned and stuffed with foie-gras torchon. Then they get bacon wrapped. I haven’t eaten this one yet, but I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

On Saturday I rolled into work and found out I’d be doing an off-site catering event. I scrambled to get my prep done so I could be off to the Portland Indie Wine Festival. We were serving Chef’s delicious Cauliflower Panna Cotta with Dungeness Crab Salad and Trout Roe. We got there a little late and by the time we set up our table, throngs of people surrounded us. The panna cotta was flying off our display at such a rate at first we were totally going down, even though we had brought about six hundred of them. It was all we could do to keep up. After the initial rush, we noticed people were setting our little appetizer cups into their wine glasses so they could walk, talk, and eat. There was some cool stuff at this event, but the general consensus was that we had the best food. Some folks came back three or four times. We sold every single one we brought, and after cleaning up, we took a quick cab back to the restaurant to help with a busy night of service. Kate and her friend showed up for happy hour, and I knew Jaybill and Keri were coming in for his birthday dinner. With 80 something on the books we were in for a fun night. While the boys cooked their assess off, put up a multi-course (eight?) tasting dinner for my brother and his wife, I played gopher-boy for the line and plated desserts. I brought Kate a dessert sampler platter, and my brothers table had three dessert courses. They were gushing with satisfaction at thier meal. The following day, Chef threw a party at his house for Cinco de Mayo. I got up early and made empanadas with sausage and cheese. I started drinking PBR early and by 4:00, I was completely shnaukered. The sun was out, Salty Dogs were poured, and I made a dipping sauce from all the available items on the buffet. Guac, , sour cream, ceviche, bean dip, and who knows what all went in there. I got hella sick and stunk out the bathroom. It was a nightmare of clogged sinks, overflowing toilets, no paper, and people were pounding on the door!! I was embarrassed, but party kept on, and among friends all was well. We’ll remember this party. I fell of early, and Kate picked me up and we hit up Kennedy School for burgers and cheesecake.

Here’s Chef’s Bluefin Tuna Sashimi and Hamachi Tartare with Yuzu, Kosho, Green Apple, Beet Chips, and Balsamic Brown Butter.  This was the first course his Oregon Food & Wine Feast, which he did for the James Beard house in New York this month.  This past monday we re-created experience for  some PDX high rollers and media types.  Chef commented on how the dinner was a little easier to pull off at The Beard House, as our back kitchen is a little tight on plating space. Also delicious was Seared Sea Scallop with Stewed Oysters, Buttered Leeks, Tarragon Oil, and American Caviar. There were some cool passed apps, but I only got a blurry picture of the Foie, ’cause we were busy plating.  For the dessert course, he had me prep his bomber Goat Cheese Panna Cotta, pictured below.  I was stoked to learn this one, because it had great flavor, texture, and was way easy to bank together.  The brunoise pears took was time consuming, but well worth the effort.

So yesterday it was official, I quit both my jobs at Carlyle and Roux. I’m taking my knives, and I’m going home.   That’s right, in two weeks, I’ll be the new pastry chef at Ten-01. The brevity of my stay at Carlyle is new and weird, I’m not sure exactly how I feel about it yet.  I’ve certainly learned things there, I learn from everything, but ultimately I’ve just never felt at home there.  Leaving Roux is bitter-sweet, I gave my notice the same day I got my first paycheck and christmas present.  I’ve had fun there these past few weeks line-cookin’, but sadly its not what I really wanna be doing.  Working saute has taught me a new respect for the job.  Timing and temperature control, baby.  When you’re on, that shit is fun.  But seriously, anyone actually reading this…did you hear what I said?  I’m the new pastry chef at Ten-o1!!  FucK YEAH!!  I’ve finally made it.  I’ve  been waiting my whole life for a position like this to come along, and now that it has, I’m still trying to get my mind around it.  The restaurant is at a hoppin’ locale right across the street from one of my favorite spots in the city, Powell’s Bookstore.  The pastry station looks right out onto 10th avenue.  Everyone that works there is cool.  The Chef wants to teach me.  They’re buying me Gelatoo-D2.  They’re busy enough that I can use bigger recipes.  Every image has fit into every panel on every page of the comic book that is my life.  Finally.

So I had two more interviews this week, Ten 01 and Genoa. Both of these restaurants are looking for a pastry dude.  Meeting with the chef at Ten 01, and seeing the kitchen and dining room, man I want that job.  Chef Jack Yoss runs a kitchen the way I like.  Everyone that works for him wants to be there, wants to bust their ass for him.  During the whole interview, he kept jumping back on the line and helping his crew knock out plates during a busy lunch service.  He’s looking for a guy to implement a pastry program, and also help with whatever savory work there might be. Pantry plating, shucking oysters, banquets, etc.  Perfect!!  The pastry station is really awesome.  The very expensive chocolate tempering machine, the proximity of the burners, ovens, and friers (all very close,) tons of freezer and cooler space, and a window that looks out on tenth avenue!!!  I’m doing a tasting next week, but Jack invited me down to work on Sunday afternoon, they’re breaking down a whole pig to make sausage!!  My interview at Genoa was a lot different.  They were closed that day and the place was very quiet.  I met with the chef, owner and wine director.  They seemed very interseted in my command of classic technique, and my ability to maintain the time honored traditions of Genoa restaurant.  After seeing the restaurant and kitchen, I don’t think this job is the right fit for me.  The interview was a good experience, it really helped me contrast and compare and prioritize what I want from an employer.  I mean,  if I’m going to spend  60+ hours a week in a restaurant, everythings got to be just right.  The perfect balance of buisness, personal, and environmental components (or -living/career/creative/ pastry/passion/kithcen/restaurant/people.)

So I took the job at Carlyle.  The self application of the title “Chef” for me is still a little tough. I’ve always referred to myself as a “cook” because I think the Chef title is thrown around a bit too readily these days.  Thanks to Food on TV everybody and his immersion circulating cousin is calling themselves one.  When I call someone “Chef” there’s a lot of respect that comes with it. I hope that my work garners that respect from others, especially my peers in the kitchen.  It is definitely time in my career, however, to challenge myself and step up to the role.  It’s exciting starting in a new place and even more exciting to be creating new desserts.  My tasting went extremely well, and I think that after working out some of the kinks, some of those items will end up on the menu.   I’ve done two big parties already in my first week, and I’m already bustin’ out some cool desserts.  I’m hoping to have the new menu up by the end of this week!!