A lot of people get depressed after the holidays, but I get happy.  The toughest, busiest time of the year has passed, and I don’t have to worry about it for another year.  The New Years Eve dessert is done (Chocolate 4 Ways, above.) and the 200+ diners (at Roux) are happily fed.   And of course in a few days I’ll be starting my new job at Ten-01.   Already the excitement is building, and people are talking.  It’s been a crazy couple of months since I broke my wrist, shit, since I’ve been in Portland.  I really hope to settle in to this new job and concentrate on becoming a better chef.  I’ve resolved in the new year to focus hard on the things that matter most to me, and to weed out the things that are bogging me down.  I’ll be 29 this year, time to grow up.  I’d like to send a big mrjeffmccarthy.com shout out to Papa Haydyn, Fenouil, Lucier, 503 Carlyle, Roux, Genoa, and any other place I may have forgotten that I interviewed, staged, or worked at since arriving to this great city in May.  All the great chefs and people I have met have given me an interesting understanding of what a small pond we’re all swimming in here in Portland.   Also big ups to my sweetie-pie, Kate, for always being there and always supporting me through these transitional times.  Likewise mad props to Jaybill and Keri, for being understanding whenever I came up short on rent.  I love y’all (sniff.)

So yesterday it was official, I quit both my jobs at Carlyle and Roux. I’m taking my knives, and I’m going home.   That’s right, in two weeks, I’ll be the new pastry chef at Ten-01. The brevity of my stay at Carlyle is new and weird, I’m not sure exactly how I feel about it yet.  I’ve certainly learned things there, I learn from everything, but ultimately I’ve just never felt at home there.  Leaving Roux is bitter-sweet, I gave my notice the same day I got my first paycheck and christmas present.  I’ve had fun there these past few weeks line-cookin’, but sadly its not what I really wanna be doing.  Working saute has taught me a new respect for the job.  Timing and temperature control, baby.  When you’re on, that shit is fun.  But seriously, anyone actually reading this…did you hear what I said?  I’m the new pastry chef at Ten-o1!!  FucK YEAH!!  I’ve finally made it.  I’ve  been waiting my whole life for a position like this to come along, and now that it has, I’m still trying to get my mind around it.  The restaurant is at a hoppin’ locale right across the street from one of my favorite spots in the city, Powell’s Bookstore.  The pastry station looks right out onto 10th avenue.  Everyone that works there is cool.  The Chef wants to teach me.  They’re buying me Gelatoo-D2.  They’re busy enough that I can use bigger recipes.  Every image has fit into every panel on every page of the comic book that is my life.  Finally.

We had a plated dessert for 70 people on Friday night, so I built a frame of brownie crunchie.  This is a process that Tony taught me, form of brownie bottom, hazelnut feuilletine, passion fruit creamy layer, and dark chocolate mousse.  The sauce was a mango coulis.  I chose a cruise ship style hazelnut bubble sugar for a garnish, just for Jake.  The show was in full affect complete with palm trees, lime and pink linens, and mood lighting.  I was prepped up and outta there before any guests even showed up.  We ate at Roux that night, and it was seriously good.  I’m always glad to experience the dishes from the customers end, it helps me understand the food better, and therefore cook it better.  We had oysters rockefeller, croque salad, crawfish pie (x2 yum!) hushpuppies, butter lettuce salad, chicken hunter style, duck confit, and pork tenderloin.  Apple quince crisp for dessert.  This was an excellent meal eaten in great atmosphere.   I had three IPA’s and two glasses of preseco.  Jaybill drove home.

 Friday the Oregonian published a review for Carlyle. Overall we got a “B,” and  Reviewer David Sarasohn had this to say about my desserts:

“Then, in the final course, the party din becomes overpowering. Desserts have multiple elements but seem deconstructed, in the fashion of a couple years ago. A dessert called Irish Car Bomb presents a Guinness-laced brownie, ice cream and caramel sauce flavored with Jameson’s whiskey and Bailey’s Irish Cream, plus crushed pretzel.

Pretzel?

In overkill, it ranks with Velvet Elvis, featuring peanut butter creme brulee, caramelized banana and bacon. Actually, the bacon is separate, on a wafer, but peanut butter is a curious flavor for creme brulee, and getting the three elements in your mouth all at once does not convince you that Elvis Presley was an underrated culinary thinker. On the other hand, it might make your sideburns grow.

The same problems beset deep-fried apple bread pudding (with brown butter ice cream and a curiously uninviting crust) and poached pear with chocolate sauce and cream cheese ice cream — which, once you calm down and get used to the idea, could have worked, except for the large doughnut-like item in the middle.

The problem isn’t lack of skill; a less vociferous dessert of cheesecake three ways was admirable. But the general dessert theme does suggest that the party has gotten out of hand.”

Wow.  I’ve been reveiwed.  THIS IS AMAZING!! Somebdody is eating and bustin’ on desserts that I made up!!! HAHAHAHAHHA!!!!! I MADE IT!!! HAHAHAHAA!!!!! AND THEY’RE SCARED!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAA. I love food.  It’s visceral nature incites the use of words like “vociferous“, and quotes like “it might make your sideburns grow.”  I guess according to this reveiwer, my desserts are a little outside the comfort zone, and a little over the top. Well fuck YEAH!!  Here’s another interesting quote from a user named Altas of the much read Portland Food & Drink.com: 

“The O lacks credibilty … why is David Sarasohn even going to restaurants on the O’s dime with his palate??? ” 

And another quote by a user named Diner in the same forum:

“Friends and fellow diners please ignore The Oregonian food critics as incompetent, mean spirited people with self-serving interests. Sample all the food of Portland and decide for yourselves where to return for excellence.”

I plan to write David Sarasohn and thank him for his honest impressions of my food, and for eating at Carlyle.  I just got off the phone with Patrick, and he told me I need to come in tommorow, and prep desserts.  We sold over 30.  A busy night!!Almost sold out on Bread Puddings!!  I guess any publicity is good publicity.  Thats food and beverage.  I’m guessin I’ll have to put cobbler on the menu now.  And maybe cupcakes.

Faithful readers, it’s time to change ‘em up a little bit, we’ve gotta keep it exciting, right?  The Rosemary and Pinenut Tartlette  is coming off.  I can’t give that thing away.  Also bye-bye is the Cheesecake Three  Ways, because its too much work.  I’m bustin’ my ass over a mediocre dessert, when I should have been making Chocolate Flourless , Passionfruit, and Creme Fraiche Sherbet, pictured above.   Sauced it with Valrhona, ’cause it’s good  Also we have Poached Pear, Olive Oil beignet, and Valrhona milk chocolate.  Take a look below.  We poached the pears in a bag for six hours in Jake’s thermal bath.  This is attempting that “in the woods” feeling that I was trying to capture with the Pinenut Tart.  Maybe this time the clarified butter and chocolate will make it happen.  That’s right, we got Valrhona on both, peeps.  You’ve tried it , right?   Also revised was The Irish Car Bomb, which is now Gunniess stout brownie, Bailey’s anglaise, and Jameson’s salted whiskey caramel ice cream.  And don’t forget to check Elvis’s out  new bacon cookie!!! 

So thaaaats how long it takes to use every single whip, spat, bowl, and container in the kitchen.  Actually, its probably not even a third of the small wares, but certainly all the spats.  AB would be ashamed of me.  Anyhoo there was a lot of stirring and straining and spinning going on today making ice creams.  Today we have blueberry white chocolate, and lemon meringue.  For the blueberry I folded in frozen berries and white chocolate mouse to a custard base. Lemon curd and soft merinque went in more base for the other.  The blueberry was very white chocolatey, and the lemon was tasty.  A good start.   I also made malted milk chocolate peanut butter and  a base for salted whiskey caramel.  I enjoy making ice creams and sorbets, because once I have base made, I can always be spinning.  I’ll be all hell of into doing something else (such as a simple plating) and the machine will go ”BEEP!” Then we eat soft serve.  Just keep spinning..Just Keep spinning

SPINNING ALL DAY!!!

After three weeks of my first menu, The Irish Car Bomb is most definitely the best selling dessert at Carlyle.  I guess its not that suprising, it’s clearly the most decadent choice.  Plating is pretty basic, but got some ideas. Flavors alone are selling it.   Clearly, plating isn’t everything.  It’s a keeper.  Coming in second, my sweetheart dessert, is the Deep Fried Bread Pudding.  Another decadent choice by way of deep frying, and caramel apple and croissant baked custard.  The brown butter ice cream that goes with it it is probably my favorite ice cream ever.  Scooped and sprinkled with a little Fluer de Sel at service, Emeril say BAM!   Sam Mason’s brown milk rules!  The mulled cider gastrique ties it all together in a way I never would have imagined.  Thats because Jaybill did.

Here is some of the delicious food being served at Carlyle.  Clockwise from top-left: Black Cod with Suedoise sauce, roasted beets, and apple frisee salad.  Confit Octopus with Breton Vegetables, broth of hamhock, manila clams and thyme.  Yellowfin Tuna with Fresh Corn Polenta, roasted Chanterelles, and Poached Duck Egg.  Hamachi , with Dashi broth, bok choy,  and crispy wonton.   The Hamachi was prepared by Chef de Cuisine Patrick Shultz, and the other dishes by Sous Chef Jake Martin.   These guys are fun to work with, and are creating some dynamite food.  I hope this post will convince them to cook me up that foie dish.

The first night of the new dessert menu for Carlyle…well…it kicked ass.  The Car Bomb was of course the big seller, closely followed by The Deep Fried Caramel Apple Bread Pudding.  I was really happy with how the Cheesecake Three Ways went out, it was a study in cheesy custard.  We only sold two Velvet Elvis, but it was so great to hear the chef call it out across the kitchen, and to see dessert go out with bacon on it.  When the runner picked it up I called “Elvis has left the kitchen!”  The Rosemary Pinenut Tartlette was the sleeper, but a guest told the owner it was “damn good.”  I also put out a special order Apple Pie, for which we charged an exorbitant price.  The menu was so well recieved by the staff and guests it almost made me forget about this.