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Pate de Fruit Demystified.

I used to be mystified by Pate de Fruit (PAHT duh fruit.)  I watched Tony create these candies from passion fruit puree and I was in awe.  Chewy, sugary, fruity, firm but yielding.  When I first started at ten-01, Chef asked me if I could make them to serve as mignardises. I of course said “Sure!” and set about learning to make them.  I searched around online and came across some ratios and learned the basic components.  Fruit puree, granulated sugar, apple pectin, glucose, and tartaric acid.  The recipes I found were specific and complicated, and scaled in grams.  I felt way out of my element.  Stupidly, however, I had already told Chef I knew how to do it, so I shit my pants and dove in to swim.  The importance of mise en place in this process was blatantly apparent from the outset.  Ingredients were added in specific order at specific times.  On the stove this shit looks dangerous; bubbling and spitting hot goopy napalm.  It always gets a second glance when cooks pass by.  After fucking it up a few times (too hard, too soft, grainy or burned)  I started to learn the critical points.  Firstly, always have a spat and a whisk in a bain near the stove.  As you add the various items, you want to alternate between the two, making sure to incorporate and scape well.  Second, dump the ingredients in, then whisk/scrape.  At first I was adding while whisking, but the precision cook loathes unincorporated ingredients stuck to the whisk.  Those grams add up quick, and this recipe requires exactitude.  Next, after you get the glucose in, turn the flame down a bit.  This burbling lava is hell of hazardous.  Don’t let it get away from you.  You have at least ten minutes before this candy reaches its finishing temperature.  Don’t add the thermometer until you get past that.  It’s easier to whisk/scrape without it, which you should do often.  Have your molds set up and ready to go, because time is limited when you reach temp.  Have a towel for the pot to land on, and your tartaric acid near by.  Remember that bain you’ve been working out of?  Drop your thermometer in there, and move it to where your molds are.  After adding the acid,  you only have a few moments to pour before it starts to set up.  Cool the candy to room temperature before turning it out onto parchment to store or a board to cut into desired shape. To serve, toss them into a big bowl with sugar, and tap off the excess.  The sugar will absorb into them, but you can, to a point, recoat them.  A few words on ingredients:  Use the good shit.  Buy Perfect Puree, or an equivalent high quality puree.  I’ve tried most of them, and now stick with Perfect’s strawberry and white peach, the recipes below are product specific.   If you want to make your own puree, buena suerte. Use powdered apple pectin.  This recipe is written for it, not the liquid shit.  Glucose and corn syrup while similar, are not equal.  Glucose has a higher density and while I would substitute corn syrup in brownies, I wouldn’t here.  Many of these products are available to you at Pastry Chef Central, whose logo resembles  Pom Pom, the most mackinest.

Strawberry (and White Peach) Pate de Fruit.

1800 g puree

180 g sugar

44 g apple pectin (46 g for white peach)

1800 g sugar (1738 g for white peach)

360 g glucose

27 g tartaric acid (28 g for white peach)

1.  Weigh puree into a large heavy saucepot.  Scale all other ingredients and set aside.

2.  Sift togehter the first amount of sugar with the apple pectin while bringing the puree to a boil.

3. When the puree starts to boil, add the sugar/pectin.  Return to a boil and add the other amount of sugar.  Return to a boil and add the glucose.

4. Cook to 225 F and remove from heat.  Add tartaric acid add pour immediately.


9 Responses

  1. Jaybill McCarthy said on 11 Nov 2008 at 10:37 pm

    Holy fucking shit I want a five bladed pizza cutter.

  2. mrjeffmccarthy said on 12 Nov 2008 at 8:15 am

    Got 60 bucks?

    http://www.jbprince.com/pastry-bags-tips-and-brushes/dough-divider-5-wheel-lock.asp

  3. passion fruit puree | Digg hot tags said on 17 Nov 2008 at 12:26 pm

    [...] Vote Pate de Fruit Demystified. [...]

  4. Keri said on 19 Nov 2008 at 6:49 pm

    these are yummy. i miss them. and…what exactly is that a photo of, where your face is somehow overlaid? I cannot figure out what i am looking at, exactly.

  5. mrjeffmccarthy said on 20 Nov 2008 at 8:57 am

    @ Keri- My face is overlaying a close-up of the boiling pate fruit.

  6. Allison Sellers said on 21 Nov 2008 at 9:59 pm

    Great website, the information is good, and the content will keep me coming back, thanks again.

  7. Tommy said on 4 Dec 2008 at 12:11 am

    Oh, MAN, I wish I could justify spending sixty bucks on one of those five-bladed dough dividers!

  8. Aliza said on 8 Dec 2008 at 10:53 am

    What does this recipe yield? What size mold do you pour into?

  9. mrjeffmccarthy said on 8 Dec 2008 at 6:48 pm

    @ Aliza- I use 4 square silicon cake pans from Sur La Table. I cut squares 8×8 to yield 64 roughly 1 1/2 inch squares from each pan.

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