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The branding and packaging of Valrhona chocolate just begs to be treated trashy.  The sexy black box and flashy gold wrapper simply scream: do your worst, I can take it and still be good.  Nothing is more ghetto to me in the world of pastry than s’mores.  The latest tableside “twist” or lofty “deconstruction” did not, for me, change the fact that this is a campfire treat, a gooey mess that was never intended as a plated dessert.  These days, anything goes. If a chef wants to do s’mores as a plated dessert, that’s just fine.  In fact, my old chef Tony made a kick-ass “Rocky Mountain S’mores“  With homemade graham crackers, marshmallows and Bailey’s ganache.  Anyway, I wanted to make s’mores with this bad-assed Valrhona, and seeing that these bars go for ten plus dollars retail, I decided to go budget as possible with the other ingredients.  Ever heard of a good Western Family product?  That’s because there isn’t one.  The gold standard of sub-standard in gas stations everywhere, I was surprised to find both of these gems at New Seasons.  My first couple s’mores started out great.  I trimmed up the chocolate and crackers.  I split the mallows in half and set to work.  I cranked up old blue and within 5 seconds had a flaming stinky white goo dripping off my skewer.  I turned down the heat and split a few more of the puffy little orbs.  7 seconds, flaming goo.  It was time to scale this operation down.  Old Blue sported way to many BTU’s for this project.  Plus it was cold and rainy outside.  Inside, my camping stove proved to be the perfect marshmallow toaster.  I used some little corn holding prongs to get in there nice and close, slowly rotating and toasting. Once lightly toasted and warmly gooey, I transferred them onto the chocolate.  Waiting a minute or two for the chocolate to melt, I drank a beer.  Slurping down the messy-mess was funny-fun.  I couldn’t help but smile as the marshmallows dripped everywhere.  The sumptuous 64% chocolate had melted just so, a delightful tiny snap as I bit down.  The crackers were meh.  I wasn’t surprised.  On my second s’mores I did opt for five seconds in the microwave.  I wanted to finish off the melting of the chocolate bar, and make it as drippy as ever.  It was pretty tasty I must admit.  I may not be an authority on cookery, but I still can’t see making it at it in a fancy restaurant.  It just seems contradictory.